Drink 2020 - 2026
Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (Oct 2020)
About this WINE
Chateau la Nerthe
Château la Nerthe is a stunning, 500-year-old property that has become a ‘one to watch’ over the past few years. Working organically since 1998, its range of 57 parcels on various soil types and expositions produces a seamless and complete expression of Châteauneuf-du-Pape – marked by a wonderful complexity. The noticeable care taken in both the vineyard and cellar has, over the past few years, resulted in seriously impressive wines. This property is, in every way, a worthy rival to the likes of Château de Beaucastel.
Winemaker Rémi Jean is as inspiring as the terroir itself – his understanding of the multiple plots on this complex property and meticulous attention to detail is impressive. In 2020, he comments that, despite the ‘easier’ vintage, La Nerthe’s viticultural team was especially vigilant, carefully surveying plot by plot to anticipate certain interventions.
The remarkable terroir at Château la Nerthe allows this estate to produce beautiful wines, year-in, year-out. The mix of rocky, clay and sandy soils with the natural springs at the property imbue the wines with a wonderful freshness and minerality. Rémi talks about how Grenache gives his red blends “magic”, Mourvèdre brings complexity and Syrah the structure. The very special top white cuvée, Clos de Beauvenir, comes from a single, walled plot: an old castle garden right in front of the historic château.
The most celebrated village of the Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the birthplace of the now indispensable French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system – imperfect though it may be. Compared to the Northern Rhône, the vineyards here are relatively flat and often feature the iconic galet pebbles – the precise benefits of which are a source of much debate. Minimum alcohol levels required by the AOC are the highest in France, but at 12.5% it is well below the natural generosity of Grenache, which only achieves its full aromatic potential when it is fully ripe and laden with the resultant high sugars. Syrah and Mourvèdre contribute the other defining elements in the blend, adding pepper, savoury spice and structure to the decadent Grenache. There are a further 10 permitted red grape varieties which can be used to adjust the “seasoning”. Of the five white varieties permitted, it is Grenache Noir’s sibling – predictably perhaps – Grenache Blanc, which dominates, though Roussanne shows a great deal of promise when handled well, notably at Château de Beaucastel.
Southern Rhône Blend
The vast majority of wines from the Southern Rhône are blends. There are 5 main black varieties, although others are used and the most famous wine of the region, Châteauneuf du Pape, can be made from as many as 13 different varieties. Grenache is the most important grape in the southern Rhône - it contributes alcohol, warmth and gentle juicy fruit and is an ideal base wine in the blend. Plantings of Syrah in the southern Rhône have risen dramatically in the last decade and it is an increasingly important component in blends. It rarely attains the heights that it does in the North but adds colour, backbone, tannins and soft ripe fruit to the blend.
The much-maligned Carignan has been on the retreat recently but is still included in many blends - the best old vines can add colour, body and spicy fruits. Cinsault is also backtracking but, if yields are restricted, can produce moderately well-coloured wines adding pleasant-light fruit to red and rosé blends. Finally, Mourvèdre, a grape from Bandol on the Mediterranean coast, has recently become an increasingly significant component of Southern Rhône blends - it often struggles to ripen fully but can add acidity, ripe spicy berry fruits and hints of tobacco to blends.