2019 Silvaner, Feuervogel [12 20], Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen, Germany

Weingut Keller

One of Germany’s great estates, it is now run by Klaus-Peter Keller, who took over the running of the winery from his father in 2001. The focus is on making great dry whites that express their terroir but they have gained a very serious reputation for making top flight German Riesling in sweet styles too. The key to success for Keller, as with any top producer lies in impeccable vineyard management. Based in the Rhinehessen, where the wines have more generosity and richness than in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer or even Nahe, the Kellers produce some of Germany’s most complete dry wines.

Silvaner/Sylvaner

A white grape of uncertain origin that is planted in Alsace and more widely in Germany. In Alsace where it is known as Sylvaner, it is gradually being replaced by Pinot Blanc and Riesling - what is left over usually ends up being blended with other varieties and labelled Edelzwicker or being bottled as AC Alsace.

In Germany it represents around 10% of the total plantings and for years and  it had a reputation for high acidity, neutral wines, low in aroma and fruit. However today much better wines are being produced through selection of better sites, lower yields, and crucially through harvesting at optimum ripeness - if unripe Sylvaner makes an exceedingly green and mean wine. The very best examples are from Franken.