2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Clos des Papes, Paul Avril & Fils, Rhône

2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Clos des Papes, Paul Avril & Fils, Rhône

Product: 20201110490
Prices start from £80.50 per bottle (75cl). Buying options
2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Clos des Papes, Paul Avril & Fils, Rhône

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Description

Clos des Papes has white varieties in only three of its 24 vineyard parcels, but the resulting wine is a blend of all permitted varieties, in roughly equal proportions. The 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is outstanding, offering up scents of pineapple and tangerine, coupled with floral overtones. Full-bodied but clean and zesty, it's somehow plump and rich, but paradoxically light and refreshing. I enjoy these wines young, but proprietor Paul-Vincent Avril opened a still-delicious 2001 during this visit, so there is an argument to be made for aging this wine.

Clos des Papes farms 24 different parcels in the appellation, and Avril said they all bring something important to the blend. "Chateauneuf de Pape is a blend—a blend of grapes and a blend of the terroirs." The 2021 vintage marked his 36th vintage, and he proudly said he'd never sold a single milliliter as bulk wine. I was left with the impression that he's not going to start now.

Drink 2021 - 2025

Joe Czerwinksi, Wine Advocate (May 2022)

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Critics reviews

Wine Advocate95/100

Clos des Papes has white varieties in only three of its 24 vineyard parcels, but the resulting wine is a blend of all permitted varieties, in roughly equal proportions. The 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is outstanding, offering up scents of pineapple and tangerine, coupled with floral overtones. Full-bodied but clean and zesty, it's somehow plump and rich, but paradoxically light and refreshing. I enjoy these wines young, but proprietor Paul-Vincent Avril opened a still-delicious 2001 during this visit, so there is an argument to be made for aging this wine.

Clos des Papes farms 24 different parcels in the appellation, and Avril said they all bring something important to the blend. "Chateauneuf de Pape is a blend—a blend of grapes and a blend of the terroirs." The 2021 vintage marked his 36th vintage, and he proudly said he'd never sold a single milliliter as bulk wine. I was left with the impression that he's not going to start now.

Drink 2021 - 2025

Joe Czerwinksi, Wine Advocate (May 2022)

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Jancis Robinson MW17+/20

Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Picpoul Blanc, Picardan. Organic. Tasted at the domaine.

Expressive and exuberant with a real explosion of fruit. Pear, floral and aniseed notes. Palate full, round and rich but with a minerally freshness and citrus edge. Very persistent. Lovely now but will age.

Drink 2021 - 2035

James Lawther MW, JancisRobinson.com (October 2021)

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Decanter97/100

Citrusy and grapefruit-led thanks to the Bourboulenc. Touch of anise, touch of fennel, lovely acidity and freshness, with a gentle saline line. Generous but only just full-bodied, this shows liveliness and more depth than many white Châteauneufs this year. Long finish. No malolactic and no oak use.

Drink 2022 - 2042

Matt Walls, Decanter (October 2021)

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Jeb Dunnuck96/100

From a great vintage for the whites (as well as the reds), the 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc offers a classic, vibrant, medium-bodied style as well as lots of citrus and white grapefruit, a distinct, rocky, mineral character, good acidity, terrific overall balance, and a great finish. Give it a year and enjoy over the following two decades or more.

Drink 2022 - 2043

Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com (November 2021)

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Vinous95/100

Round and elegant, the 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc bursts from the glass with lively aromas of honeysuckle, acacia, dried lemon and orange peel, white peach, mango and a pinch of fresh ginger. Full-bodied, oily-textured and concentrated, this is a delicious Clos des Papes Blanc. Already drinking splendidly today, it will provide pleasure over the next 10 years.

Drink 2022 - 2035

Nicolas Greinacher, Vinous (March 2023)

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About this WINE

Paul Avril et Fils

Paul Avril et Fils

With Vincent Avril at the helm, Clos des Papes is one of the most highly regarded properties; not only in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but in the world of wine. This family estate has been certified organic for 15 years, with high attention to detail translating into impressively low production levels. Given that the vines here average over 50 years of age, they are firmly prepared and able to withstand many ordeals, including Mistral winds at 140 kilometres an hour, severe heatwaves and drought conditions. Thankfully, they were spared from the latter two in 2020.

When you visit this iconic estate, what stands out most is the complete focus on the vineyard and the absolutely hands-off approach in the cellar. The wines are amongst the purest expression of terroir you could ever wish to taste. There is a magic here that transcends the liquid in the bottle – Clos des Papes is a nonpareil of sheer brilliance.

Vincent is exceptionally happy with his ’20 wines, saying, “I can tell you ’20 is, I think, a great year that will stand the test of time. A very balanced, fine vintage with great freshness, silky tannins and good length in the mouth. Everything was climatically united, both for the red and the white. Currently, ’20 reminds me of ’05 and ’07.”

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Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The most celebrated village of the Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the birthplace of the now indispensable French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system – imperfect though it may be. Compared to the Northern Rhône, the vineyards here are relatively flat and often feature the iconic galet pebbles – the precise benefits of which are a source of much debate. Minimum alcohol levels required by the AOC are the highest in France, but at 12.5% it is well below the natural generosity of Grenache, which only achieves its full aromatic potential when it is fully ripe and laden with the resultant high sugars. Syrah and Mourvèdre contribute the other defining elements in the blend, adding pepper, savoury spice and structure to the decadent Grenache. There are a further 10 permitted red grape varieties which can be used to adjust the “seasoning”. Of the five white varieties permitted, it is Grenache Noir’s sibling – predictably perhaps – Grenache Blanc, which dominates, though Roussanne shows a great deal of promise when handled well, notably at Château de Beaucastel.

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White Rhône Blend

White Rhône Blend

With the exception of the wines from Condrieu and Château-Grillet virtually all Rhône Valley whites are made from blends.

In the north, the white wines of Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, St-Joseph, and St-Péray are produced from blends of Marsanne and Roussanne. Generally Marsanne is the dominant partner and it lends colour, body and weight to the blend, as well as richly scented fruit. Roussanne, a notoriously low yielder and pernickety to grow, produces intensely aromatic wines which contribute bouquet, delicacy and finesse to the blend.

Until about 15 years ago there was very little interest in southern Rhône whites as it was widely believed that the combination of dull non aromatic grapes and the baking summer heat meant quality wine production was nigh impossible. Since then the quality has improved markedly through the introduction of cool fermentation techniques and increased plantings of northern Rhône white grapes.

The base of many blends is still Grenache Blanc, a widely planted variety producing fresh wines with apple-like fruits, often with hints of aniseed. Ugni Blanc is still found in many blends, as is Clairette though their general lack of character and definition has led to a reduction in plantings. The future for southern Rhône whites appears to lie with Roussanne, Marsanne, and, increasingly, Viognier.

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