2020 As Caborcas, Telmo Rodríguez, Valdeorras, Spain
About this WINE
Telmo Rodriguez
Telmo Rodriguez is one of the great Spanish winemakers. He travelled and learnt for many years before returning home to Rioja. In addition, he supervises négociant projects throughout Spain. One of his most acclaimed projects is in Ribera del Duero.
The charismatic Telmo has something of the prodigal about him, having now returned to his Riojan homestead to energise the great house of Remelluri. One should not overlook, however, his other properties, which explore some of the lesser-known areas of Spain and in each case seek to make superlative and characterful wines. Ribera del Duero is far from a lesser-known area, so it is to Telmo’s great credit, but to no-one’s surprise, that the wines he makes at Matallana are amongst the very best here too.
Valdeorras
Godello is the flagship grape of Valdeorras, and it thrives in the region's conditions. Wines made from Godello are often aromatic, elegant, and expressive. They can display a range of flavours, including citrus fruits, stone fruits, floral notes, and a touch of minerality. Godello wines from Valdeorras are typically crisp, refreshing, and well-balanced.
Apart from Godello, Valdeorras produces red wines, predominantly from the Mencía grape variety. These red wines can exhibit bright red fruit flavours, floral and herbal notes, and a vibrant acidity that adds freshness to the wines.
The winemakers of Valdeorras take pride in their commitment to quality and their focus on sustainable viticulture. Many vineyards in the region are cultivated using organic or biodynamic practices, reflecting a growing trend toward environmentally friendly winemaking.
In addition to Godello and Mencía, Valdeorras can produce wines using grape varieties such as Doña Blanca, Palomino, and Merenzao (also known as Bastardo). However, Godello remains the region's star and has helped Valdeorras gain recognition in Spain and internationally.
Mencía
Mencía is the primary grape of the Bierzo region and its undisputed star, covering nearly two-thirds of the vineyards. This red grape variety is grown almost exclusively in north-western part of Spain (especially in the DOs of Galicia, Valdeorras, Monterrei, and Ribeira Sacra). Mencía ripens early, by mid-September, and is well suited to the maritime climate of Bierzo where autumn rains are quite common.
Mencía has only recently come into spotlight as a quality, potential-laden grape variety. When properly made, it offers fascinating wines across a contrasting spectrum of styles; on the one end are fruity and forward wines with supple tannins and succulent fruit. On the other end are more concentrated, powerful styles with an exotic earthiness, smooth tannins and an enviable reflection of the minerally-rich Bierzo terroir.
Mencía is capable of making excellent wine on its own, with no need to sacrifice its unique character in blends with Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot that are commonplace elsewhere in Spain.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
Only 2,664 bottles were made in 2020 of this glorious, 2.5 hectare single-vineyard field blend of Mencia, Merenzao, Sousón, Godello and Garnacha. The nose is beautifully fragrant with a sensory overload of both herbal and floral characteristics. The aromas are amazingly lifted, floral and fine with garrigue-style thyme and age swirling with crushed lavender. The palate is ultra fresh with crunchy red cherries mingling with a juicy red apple note. It is so fine and pure, with absolute mineral clarity, like licking river pebbles. The tannins are incredibly fine but have plenty of grip. Lean and precise, this is glorious.
Catriona Felstead MW, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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