2020 Molino Real White, Telmo Rodríguez, Málaga, Spain
Critics reviews
2,015 half bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2022.
The flagship sweet white Moscatel de Alejandría 2020 Molino Real comes from nine hectares of selected vineyards on slate slopes fermented slowly in 225-litre oak barrels, where the wine matured at low temperature for 20 months. It has 13.5% natural alcohol—unfortified—and kept some 149 grams of unfermented sugar. 2020 is quite approachable, with freshness and primary notes, with complexity beyond the varietal notes, which are in the background, and there's always a very distinct note of bay leaf and balsamic. The grapes are dried outside but covered from the direct sun.
It has a bright golden colour and is delicate, elegant, balanced, and clean. Telmo told me that the juice from the pressing is very clean; the fermentation is similar to the fermentation of a red at a higher temperature. The palate also has an ethereal quality; the texture is velvety, there's a spark of acidity, and the sweetness is very integrated.
Drink 2023 - 2030
Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate (October 2024)
About this WINE
Telmo Rodriguez
Telmo Rodriguez is one of the great Spanish winemakers. He travelled and learnt for many years before returning home to Rioja. In addition, he supervises négociant projects throughout Spain. One of his most acclaimed projects is in Ribera del Duero.
The charismatic Telmo has something of the prodigal about him, having now returned to his Riojan homestead to energise the great house of Remelluri. One should not overlook, however, his other properties, which explore some of the lesser-known areas of Spain and in each case seek to make superlative and characterful wines. Ribera del Duero is far from a lesser-known area, so it is to Telmo’s great credit, but to no-one’s surprise, that the wines he makes at Matallana are amongst the very best here too.
Málaga
Málaga is a historic wine-producing region located in the southernmost part of Spain, within the autonomous community of Andalusia. Various civilizations have influenced its wine industry, including the Phoenicians, Romans, Moors, and later Christian settlers. Today, it remains an important area for producing unique and traditional wines.
Málaga benefits from a warm Mediterranean climate, with hot summers and mild winters. The vineyards are often situated on steep, terraced slopes, maximizing sun exposure for the grapevines. The region's proximity to the Mediterranean Sea also influences its climate, helping moderate temperatures and cooling sea breezes.
The region is primarily known for producing sweet, fortified wines from Muscat of Alexandria (locally known as Moscatel) and Pedro Ximénez grapes. These varieties thrive in the region's warm climate and produce wines with rich flavors and high sugar content.
Sweet and fortified wines fall into two main categories: Málaga and Sierras de Málaga, both of which are typically made using the sun-drying process known as "pasificación" or "asoleo," where harvested grapes are laid out in the sun to concentrate their sugars before fermentation. This traditional method results in luscious, sweet wines with complex raisins, dried fruits, and honey flavors.
There are various styles of Málaga wines, ranging from light and refreshing to rich and viscous.
Málaga Dulce (Sweet Málaga) is rich and sweet, often enjoyed as dessert wine or paired with pastries, nuts, and cheeses.
Málaga Pálido (Pale Málaga) is lighter in style, with a delicate sweetness and nutty flavors.
Málaga Trasañejo is an aged wine that undergoes extended aging, developing more complex and concentrated flavors.
Historically, Málaga was a significant wine region during the Roman Empire, and its wines were highly regarded in the ancient world. Later, during the 19th century, Málaga wines gained popularity internationally and were exported to many countries, including the United States and the United Kingdom.
While the production of sweet, fortified wines remains the region's traditional focus, there has been a growing interest in producing dry wines from international grape varieties like Chardonnay and Syrah. Some wineries also experiment with different winemaking techniques to create modern, innovative wines.
Moscatel
The Moscatel grape, or Muscat, is a highly aromatic and versatile grape variety cultivated in wine regions worldwide. It is one of the oldest known grape varieties, with a long history dating back thousands of years.
It is believed to have originated in the Mediterranean region, specifically in ancient Greece or Egypt. It has since spread to many wine-producing countries, including Spain, Italy, France, Portugal, Australia, South Africa, and the United States.
One of the distinctive characteristics of the Moscatel grape is its intense and captivating aroma. It often displays floral notes, such as orange blossom, rose petals, and jasmine, and fruit-driven aromas, like citrus, peach, apricot, and tropical fruits.
Moscatel is a versatile grape variety used to produce a range of wine styles. It can be used to make dry wines, showcasing the aromatic character alongside crisp acidity and balanced flavours. However, it is more commonly associated with producing sweet and fortified wines, including Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, Moscato d'Asti, and Muscat de Rivesaltes. These wines often exhibit luscious sweetness, rich fruit flavours, and a characteristic grapey taste.
In addition to still and fortified wines, the Moscatel grape produces sparkling wines, such as Moscato d'Asti and Asti Spumante, known for their light effervescence and fruity character.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
2,015 half bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2022.
The flagship sweet white Moscatel de Alejandría 2020 Molino Real comes from nine hectares of selected vineyards on slate slopes fermented slowly in 225-litre oak barrels, where the wine matured at low temperature for 20 months. It has 13.5% natural alcohol—unfortified—and kept some 149 grams of unfermented sugar. 2020 is quite approachable, with freshness and primary notes, with complexity beyond the varietal notes, which are in the background, and there's always a very distinct note of bay leaf and balsamic. The grapes are dried outside but covered from the direct sun.
It has a bright golden colour and is delicate, elegant, balanced, and clean. Telmo told me that the juice from the pressing is very clean; the fermentation is similar to the fermentation of a red at a higher temperature. The palate also has an ethereal quality; the texture is velvety, there's a spark of acidity, and the sweetness is very integrated.
Drink 2023 - 2030
Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate (October 2024)
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