2020 Barolo, Bricco delle Viole, G.D. Vajra, Piedmont, Italy
Critics reviews
The 2020 Barolo Bricco delle Viole, Vajra's flagship, is very fine. Dark cherry, kirsch, blood orange, spice and lavender are nicely amplified. The 2020 is gracious and elegant, but its youthful Nebbiolo tannins will require some time to soften. The 2020 is another wine that captures my keen interests with its sublime balance. I would be thrilled to own it.
There’s plenty to like in these new releases from the Vajra family. Starting with the 2020 Barolos, the wines are gracious and finely sketched, with the personality of each wine clearly defined. The Bricco delle Viole is especially sublime and well worth seeking out. As always, the Barolos offer a compelling mix of classicism and contemporary finesse. The entry-level offerings are a bit mixed this year, largely a reflection of the challenging 2022 harvest. Readers will find several new wines made from nearly extinct varieties that show plenty of intrigue and that are sure to enrich this range going forward.
Drink 2026 - 2040
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (November 2023)
A site at 380–490 m that faces south. Many different picks. Lots of clay but cooled from the west. In Alba museum there’s an inscription about this site. To be released mid 2024.
Gorgeous roundness after a light animal scent. A ballet dancer with muscles – including some delicacy.
Drink 2025 - 2038
Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com (November 2023)
The G.D. Vajra 2020 Barolo Bricco delle Viole is a very pretty wine with brightness and delicate aromas that remain etched and defined. You get dried violet or lilac, tart cherry, cranberry, lavender essence, rosemary and other perfumed Mediterranean nuances. Bricco delle Viole finishes dry, and the tannins are on the powdery side, giving the wine medium weight and a lean mid-palate.
Drink 2025 - 2043
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (April 2024)
Rose petals, racy plums and cherries with subtle white pepper spices and mineral. The tight, full-bodied palate is grasped by fine, minerally textured tannins. Powerful, ample and vertical in the middle before a lengthy, mineral finish. Such a joy to taste now, but this would be better in two to three years.
Zekun Shuai, JamesSuckling.com (February 2024)
Fragrant and refined, the G.D. Vajra 2020 Bricco delle Viole has heady aromas of wild berry, fragrant purple flower and camphor. It’s polished and savory, with great red cherry and raspberry fruit flavors accented by spicy notes of ground clove and white pepper. Tightly knit, fine-grained tannins offer seamless support.
Drink 2028 - 2035
Kerin O'Keefe, KerinOKeefe.com (February 2024)
About this WINE
G. D. Vajra
Based in Vergne, the highest village in the commune of Barolo, GD Vajra is a relatively young estate. It was established by Aldo Vajra in 1972, when he was just 16. His father had planted vineyards in 1947 but called Aldo “mad” when he followed his childhood dream to become a winemaker. Taking over the family estate in 1968, he became one of the early pioneers of organic farming, and in 1971 the estate became one of the first in Piedmont to be organically certified. Until now, Vajra’s wines have somewhat flown under the radar, but it’s with good reason that the estate has been described as “one of Piedmont’s best kept secrets… with sublime hand-crafted, artisan wines of the very highest level”.
The Vajra team deduced that lots of flowers on a vine indicate a vintage more likely to have spacious, aromatic fruit. 2019’s fruit set was low, giving the vintage concentration. July’s heat spikes didn’t cause any issues, while the dull August preserved a spine of acidity. Harvest was the longest and latest of the past decade, and the decision was taken to shorten the period of skin contact after fermentation to under 30 days. The time in wood was also reduced by two or three months. The definition of the 2019 vintage suits the purity of the Vajra style very well.
Barolo
Located due south of Alba and the River Tanaro, Barolo is Piedmont's most famous wine DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), renowned for producing Italy's finest red wines from 100 percent Nebbiolo.
Its red wines were originally sweet, but in 1840 the then extant Italian monarchy, the House of Savoy, ordered them to be altered to a dry style. This project was realised by French oenologist Louis Oudart, whose experience with Pinot Noir had convinced him of Nebbiolo's potential. The Barolo appellation was formalised in 1966 at around 1,700 hectares – only a tenth of the size of Burgundy, but almost three times as big as neighbouring Barbaresco.
Upgraded to DOCG status in 1980, Barolo comprises two distinct soil types: the first is a Tortonian sandy marl that produces a more feminine style of wine and can be found in the villages of Barolo, La Morra, Cherasco, Verduno, Novello, Roddi and parts of Castiglione Falletto. The second is the older Helvetian sandstone clay that bestows the wines with a more muscular style. This can be found in Monforte d'Alba, Serralunga d'Alba, Diano d'Alba, Grinzane Cavour and the other parts of Castiglione Falletto. Made today from the Nebbiolo clones Lampia, Michet and Rosé, Barolo has an exceptional terroir with almost every village perched on its own hill. The climate is continental, with an extended summer and autumn enabling the fickle Nebbiolo to achieve perfect ripeness.
Inspired by the success of modernists such as Elio Altare, there has been pressure in recent years to reduce the ageing requirements for Barolo; this has mostly been driven by new producers to the region, often with no Piedmontese viticultural heritage and armed with their roto-fermenters and barriques, intent on making a fruitier, more modern style of wine.
This modern style arguably appeals more to the important American market and its scribes, but the traditionalists continue to argue in favour of making Barolo in the classic way. They make the wine in a mix of epoxy-lined cement or stainless-steel cuves, followed by extended ageing in 25-hectoliter Slavonian botte (barrels) to gently soften and integrate the tannins. However, even amongst the traditionalists there has been a move, since the mid-1990s, towards using physiologically (rather than polyphenolically) riper fruit, aided by global warming. Both modernist and traditional schools can produce exceptional or disappointing wines.
Recommended traditionalist producers:
Giacomo Borgogno, Giacomo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa, Elio Grasso, Marcarini, Bartolo Mascarello and Giuseppe Mascarello.
Recommended nmdernist producers:
Azelia, Aldo Conterno, Luciano Sandrone, Paolo Scavino and Roberto Voerzio
Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo is the grape behind the Barolo and Barbaresco wines and is hardly ever seen outside the confines of Piedmont. It takes its name from "nebbia" which is Italian for fog, a frequent phenomenon in the region.
A notoriously pernickety grape, it requires sheltered south-facing sites and performs best on the well-drained calcareous marls to the north and south of Alba in the DOCG zones of Barbaresco and Barolo.
Langhe Nebbiolo is effectively the ‘second wine’ of Piedmont’s great Barolo & Barbarescos. This DOC is the only way Langhe producers can declassify their Barolo or Barbaresco fruit or wines to make an early-drinking style. Unlike Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo can be cut with 15% other red indigenous varieties, such as Barbera or Dolcetto.
Nebbiolo flowers early and ripens late, so a long hang time, producing high levels of sugar, acidity and tannins; the challenge being to harvest the fruit with these three elements ripe and in balance. The best Barolos and Barbarescos are perfumed with aromas of tar, rose, mint, chocolate, liquorice and truffles. They age brilliantly and the very best need ten years to show at their best.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
Vajra were pioneers in this vineyard, first releasing it as a single vineyard wine in 1974, but for a long time, although the quality of the soil was well recognised, its altitude (495m at its highest) was felt to be a disadvantage. In warmer, modern times, this is now seen as a benefit. Nevertheless, the Vajra wine still carries a spacey, ethereal impression, with its aromas more violet than rose, the fruit more blue than red. The wine’s spine has a tingling acidity around which the helix of tannins entwine. This is both compelling and intellectual.
Mark Pardoe MW, Wine Director, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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