2020 St Aubin, Sous La Roche Dumay, 1er Cru, Domaine Marc Colin, Burgundy
Critics reviews
The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sous Roche Dumay is ample and charming, offering up aromas of pear, praline, confit citrus and lemon zest. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and giving, with lively acids and a saline finish, it's one of the domaine's young-vine cuvées.
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (Jan 2022)
About this WINE
Domaine Marc Colin
Domaine Marc Colin
Marc Colin has now handed over this leading St-Aubin domaine to three of his children, Damien, Joseph and Caroline. The eldest, Pierre-Yves, was involved until 2005 harvest, when he took out his share of the vineyards to be worked separately. The remainder is still a sizeable operation, with 20 hectares spread between 30 appellations, 25 of them for white wines.
The Colin reds come from St-Aubin, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, including a fine vieilles vignes bottling which comes from a plot in Les Champs Claude planted in 1901. This and the Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes are worthy of note, though the Domaine is much better known for its white wines. These include no less than eight bottlings of premier cru St-Aubin plus Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet and their associated grands crus.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
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Description
The Roche Dumay is the distinctive limestone outcrop that looms above the northern side of the N6 as you approach St Aubin. This vineyard nestles underneath up to where the scrub and steep slope begin just below the rock.
Twenty years ago, this plot was planted to Pinot Noir, but there’s no clay, so it’s better suited to Chardonnay. The aromas are quite heady, with just a hint of exotic fruit. The palate is a trademark Damien Colin: pure, bright and deep.
Drink 2024 - 2032
Mark Pardoe MW, Wine Director, Berry Bros. & Rudd (December 2021)
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