2020 Roero, Arneis, Giovanni Rosso, Piedmont, Italy

Giovanni Rosso

Davide Rosso took over from his father, Giovanni, in the early 2000s. He has since risen quickly in reputation as one of Piedmont’s greatest producers. He may not have the uninterrupted winemaking history of some of his famous neighbours, but he is the envy of many: he has some of the most desirable vineyards in Barolo – Serralunga d’Alba, Cerretta, Serra – showcasing the vivid terroir of his beloved hometown.

His range of single vineyards demonstrates his sensitivity and skill, and his pride for his hometown only magnifies the details of these crus, resulting in wines of rare class and sophistication.

Using traditional cement for fermentation with long gentle macerations, Davide’s wines are timeless, traditional and expertly crafted. His specially made French botti from the Fontainebleau forest are an indicator of Davide’s refined flamboyance. And his vineyards give him the quality of raw material to demonstrate his charm and flair.

He also crafts a small amount of wine in neighbouring Langhe and Roero and an Etna Bianco and Etna Rosso from stunning volcanic sites in Sicily.

Piedmont

Piedmont has long been renowned as Italy's premier fine wine province, with its reputation dating back to Roman times and further solidified under the House of Savoy, which wielded influence over Europe during the Middle Ages from its Turin stronghold. Piedmont's prominence in Italian history was notably highlighted as a driving force behind Italian Reunification in 1861.

Situated in the north-western part of Italy, Piedmont boasts a continental climate shaped by the nearby Alps and Ligurian Apennines, influencing both its culture and winemaking traditions. The region is home to several renowned fine wine areas, including the Langhe region, encompassing esteemed appellations such as Barolo and Barbaresco, as well as Monferrato, which features wines like Asti and Gavi, and Novara with its Colline Novaresi and Boca.

Nebbiolo reigns supreme as Piedmont's quintessential grape variety, with its stronghold in the production of illustrious wines such as Barolo and Barbaresco. Following closely are Barbera d'Alba or Barbera d'Asti, and Dolcetto, known for its role as an early-ripening antipasti wine, particularly around Dogliani. Among whites, Moscato takes center stage, crafting both the effervescent Asti and the more refined Moscato d'Asti.

Piedmont also produces notable red wines like Brachetto d'Acqui and popular dry whites such as Gavi, made from the Cortese grape. Remarkably, despite contributing only a small fraction to Italy's total wine production, Piedmont boasts the highest proportion of Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) and Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) wines.

For those seeking exceptional Piedmontese wines, recommended producers include Roberto Sarotto, Marinacci, Punset, Luisin, Roagna, Fratelli Alessandria, Trediberri, Vigneti Luigi Oddero, Marcarini, and E.Pira di Chiara Boschis, among others.

Arneis

Arneis means "rascal" in Italian, and is so named for its ability to beguile the most patient winemakers. It is a  delicate white wine grape that originated (and is still primarily grown) in the Roero hills of Italy's southern Piedmont, just north of Alba ; it thrives in the chalky and sandy soil of this region.

Once nearly extinct, Arneis has made a comeback in recent years. The Arneis de Roero wines received DOC status in 1989 and DOCG in 2006 and production is on the rise, as consumers have come to appreciate its its distinctive apricot and tangerine aromas.

It can produce very good wines with perfumy characteristics of apples, pears, and a hint of licorice. The wines, usually sold as Roero Arneis DOCG.