2020 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Domaine du Pavillon, Albert Bichot, Burgundy

Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or. Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.

Two specific vineyards, En Charlemagne and Le Charlemagne, make up half of this appellation, while white grapes grown in seven others may also be sold as Corton-Charlemagne. As a result there can be a wide divergence in style between a south-facing location such as Pougets, which needs picking at the start of the harvest, and the western slopes in Pernand-Vergelesses which might be picked weeks later.

The company was established in Beaune in 1831 by Bernard Bichot, grandfather of the first of a line of Albert Bichots. The current managing director is Alberic Bichot (born 1964) who has revitalised the business which is now based around a series of domaines: Long-Depaquit in Chablis, Clos Frantin for the Côte de Nuits, du Pavillon for the Côte de Beaune and Domaine d’Adélie for Mercurey. Wines with one or other of these denominations will be from their own vineyards, while wines just bearing the name Albert Bichot will be from purchased grapes.   The company has separate vinification centres in Chablis, Pommard, Nuits-St-Georges and Beaune itself. Lupé-Cholet is an associated marque. Christophe Chavel has been looking after the vineyards since 2000, ensuring that they are all ploughed and no fertilisers are used. Alain Serveau, originally from a domaine in Morey-St-Denis, is technical director. Fermentation takes place in wooden vats of varying sizes depending on the specific plot of vines in question, using natural yeasts. Maturation is in oak barrels without too much new wood: 20 to 30 per cent for village wines, from 50 to 100 per cent for grands crus.   Bichot is now a serious player with some excellent red wines which avoid showing too much of a house style, and some fine whites. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.