2021 Clos-Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine d'Eugénie, Burgundy
Critics reviews
The 2021 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru is the most reserved wine in the cellar, unwinding in the glass with aromas of plums, cherries, sweet spices and blood orange. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and concentrated, with a layered but tightly wound core, it will reward some bottle age.
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (January 2023)
About this WINE
Domaine d'Eugenie
Domaine d'Eugénie is the reincarnation of the famed Domaine Engel. After the tragic early death of Philippe Engel in May 2005, his family decided to sell the domaine. The highest bidder was François Pinault, owner of Château Latour in Bordeaux, whose right-hand man Frédéric Engerer had long had a passion for burgundy. The 2005 harvest had already been sold off in bulk, but the new team, including young vigneron Michel Mallard from Ladoix, made the 2006, 2007 and 2008 in the Lupé Cholet headquarters in Nuits-St-Georges. From 2009 they have moved into the now refurbished Clos Frantin buildings in Vosne itself.
Yields are significantly lower than in Philippe’s day and the vineyards have been meticulously looked after, including a substantial programme of replacing missing individual vines, which will be picked separately and declassified into the village Vosne in their youth.
The principal decision is whether or not to keep any stems. None were retained in 2006, but an experiment with one of the two fermentation tanks of Clos de Vougeot the following year was positive, the blend of half with and half without stems showing textural qualities and a sense of energy over and above either individual version. The experiment has been continued in 2008 and extended to the Grands Echezeaux.
Otherwise, the grapes are vinified in fairly classical manner, with a preference for punching down rather than pumping over, then matured in barrel for a minimum of 15 months (village Vosne), or rather longer for the grands crus which receive around 80% of new wood.
The first vintage released by the Domaine was in 2006. The highly impressive 2007 vintage is a truly representative vintage for Domaine Eugenie, showing each of the vineyards in its true guise.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.
Vougeot
Most of the wine produced in this small village comes from a single, walled Grand Cru vineyard, the famous Clos de Vougeot. The vineyard in its present form dates from 1336 (when it was first planted by monks of Cîteaux), although it was not until the following century that it was entirely enclosed by stone walls.
Clos de Vougeot is both the smallest commune and the largest Clos in the Cote d’Or. It consists of 50 hectares of vineyards shared among 82 owners, with six soil types. There is quite a difference in quality between the upper (best) and lower (least fine) parts of the vineyard, though in medieval times a blend from all sectors was considered optimum.Le Domaine de la Vougeraie makes a very fine white wine from Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot, first picked out by the monks of Cîteaux as being suitable ground for white grapes in the year 1110.
- Five hectares of village Vougeot
- 12 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (four in all): Les Cras, Les Petits-Vougeots, Clos de la Perrière and Clos Blanc de Vougeot
- 51 hectares of Grand Cru vineyard – Clos de Vougeot
- Recommended producers: Domaine de la Vougeraie, Domaine Bertagna, Engel, Anne Gros, Grivot, Liger-Belair, Meo-Camuzet.
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
The 2021 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru is the most reserved wine in the cellar, unwinding in the glass with aromas of plums, cherries, sweet spices and blood orange. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and concentrated, with a layered but tightly wound core, it will reward some bottle age.
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (January 2023)
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