2021 Cepparello, Isole e Olena, Tuscany, Italy
Critics reviews
The 2021 Cepparello is a reticent, tightly wound wine, despite its mid-weight structure. Today, the 2021 comes across as quite nervy and lean, even for young Cepparello. It will be interesting to see if this comes together with a bit more time in bottle. I very much like the energy here, but the 2021 is decidedly austere.
Drink 2027 - 2046
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (June 2024)
In this vintage Cepparello shows very restrained notes of red cherries, dried violets and a lot of stony minerality. There is a meaty and savory character in depth. Overall very precise and integrated. Velvety tannins dominate the palate, showing a chalky texture, even dusty, with a full body, amazing concentration and very refreshing acidity. The finish is brightly focused on cherry pits. A good wine for the long haul. Possibly one of the best Cepparello ever. Best after 2031.
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (July 2024)
Paolo De Marchi first made Cepparello in 1980. It was a ground-breaking monovarietal 100% Sangiovese, which did not conform to Chianti laws, and so it joined the band of so-called Super Tuscans. I cannot remember tasting the first few of this celebrated Super-Tuscan’s vintages, but I certainly tasted and, on many occasions, bought almost every wine from the mid-eighties onward. There is something intangible and magnetic about Paolo’s character, and his wines are a testament to his sensitive nature and incredible vision. He graciously welcomed me at his vineyard on a couple of occasions over the years, and when he sold up and moved on in 2022, it felt like the end of an era. Fear not, though, because this spectacular property was bought by Christopher Descours, owner of Charles Heidsieck and Biondi Santi, among others. Christopher’s dedication and attention to detail will undoubtedly build on Paolo De Marchi’s incredible legacy.
So, this must be the final ‘Paolo Cepparello’, and I must admit it is utterly stunning. It was released on 1st April in Italy and is now making its way onto the market in the UK. Made from only the finest bunches of Sangiovese, from the best plots on the property and seeing 18 months in French oak (one-third new), the 2021 vintage did not run particularly smoothly, with issues during flowering and fruit set. These challenges reduced yields, and while the Isole accountant might be grumbling, I am cock-a-hoop, because this is a slightly more concentrated and boldly juicy style of wine. One might shudder at the 15% alcohol level, but you need not worry because this is a dramatic and epically balanced wine. It is seamless and silky, and you can drink it now at only three years of age! Of course, its best years are to come, but a wine with this level of equilibrium at this early stage is very special indeed, not least because Sangiovese is a grape that can often look awkward and edgy in its youth.
So, where does it sit in the great pantheon of Cepparello releases? As my regular readers know, I am a balance freak, and I favour wines with pin-sharp acidity offset by lusty, sumptuous fruit. This 2021 vintage ticks all the boxes, so it is easy for me to put it in the highest echelons of Cepparello’s history. If you want to own a ‘Paolo Cepparello’ that you can drink now or keep for a couple of decades, this is it. This wine is destined to become a collector’s item before we know it!
Drink now - 2038
Matthew Jukes, MatthewJukes.com (May 2024)
15% alcohol. This is 100% Sangiovese from Chianti Classico. First released in 1980, when you couldn’t label 100% Sangiovese as Chianti Classico, this was Paolo di Marchi’s final vintage at the helm – the property is now owned by Groupe EPI, a French private investment group who also own Piper-Heidsieck and Charles Heidsieck, and since. They bought Isole e Olena in 2022, five years after purchasing Biondi Santi. This is a paradox of a wine: it weights in at 15% alcohol, but it’s still fresh and taut. Substantial and well structured with a rush of brambly black cherry fruit with some raspberry brightness as well as some liqueur-like richness and a touch of sweet spicy oak, as well as grippy tannins. So much promise here: a rich expression of Sangiovese with concentration and refinement. Give this time.
Jamie Goode, Wineanorak.com (May 2024)
About this WINE
Isole e Olena
The Isole et Olena Estate, run by Paolo de Marchi for 45 years, is a Tuscan property that has seen a dramatic rise in quality over the last few decades. Paolo's family, originally from Piedmont, purchased the estate in the 1960s. His attention to detail in both the vineyard and the winery was the driving force that turned quality around. The estate was purchased by the EPI group recently, who have expertise in Tuscany, also owning the famed Montalcino estate Biondi-Santi.
The wines have Cepparello at their head, a barrique-aged Sangiovese classified as an IGT - because at the time of its creation in the 1980s a wine comprising 100% Sangiovese could not legally be labelled as Chianti. There is a Chianti Classico and a Vin Santo, as well as some excellent wines from the Collezione de Marchi label, including a Syrah called Eremo, a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Chardonnay.
IGT Tuscany
IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) Tuscany is a wine classification from Italy's Tuscany region. It is one of the official wine classifications recognized by the Italian government. IGT is a step below the highest classification, DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), and above the DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) level.
The IGT classification was introduced in 1992 to allow winemakers more flexibility in grape varieties and employ winemaking techniques while still ensuring a certain level of quality and geographical indication. This classification gives winemakers more freedom to experiment and innovate, deviating from the strict regulations of the DOC and DOCG classifications.
IGT Tuscany wines can be produced throughout the entire region of Tuscany, encompassing various sub-regions and terroirs within the area. This classification allows winemakers to use traditional Tuscan grape varieties, such as Sangiovese, and non-traditional grape varieties, including international ones like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and others.
The IGT Tuscany classification gives winemakers the flexibility to create wines that showcase the unique characteristics of their specific vineyards and winemaking styles. It allows for experimentation with blending different grape varieties, using innovative winemaking techniques, and exploring new regional vineyard sites.
IGT Tuscany wines can vary greatly, from traditional and terroir-driven expressions to more modern and international styles. This classification has played a significant role in developing Super Tuscan wines, often IGT designated and known for their high quality and international recognition.
Overall, IGT Tuscany provides a platform for winemakers in the region to express their creativity and produce wines that reflect their unique vision while maintaining a connection to the rich heritage and traditions of winemaking in Tuscany.
Sangiovese
A black grape widely grown in Central Italy and the main component of Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano as well as being the sole permitted grape for the famed Brunello di Montalcino.
It is a high yielding, late ripening grape that performs best on well-drained calcareous soils on south-facing hillsides. For years it was blighted by poor clonal selection and massive overcropping - however since the 1980s the quality of Sangiovese-based wines has rocketed upwards and they are now some of the most sought after in the world.
It produces wines with pronounced tannins and acidity, though not always with great depth of colour, and its character can vary from farmyard/leather nuances through to essence of red cherries and plums. In the 1960s the advent of Super Tuscans saw bottlings of 100% Sangiovese wines, as well as the introduction of Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blends, the most famous being Tignanello.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
The 2021 Tuscan vintage is quickly gaining an outstanding reputation, with critics awarding huge scores. Enter one of the original “Super Tuscans” – Isole e Olena’s Cepparello. A selection of the best Sangiovese from this beautiful estate, it’s often a wine of paradox with power and poise – characteristics amplified in this beautifully balanced vintage.
It’s a Super Tuscan with a Burgundian accent – all floral perfume, juicy cherry and silky tannins. It will age beautifully and is testament to Paulo di Marchi’s vision for better clones of Sangiovese planted at altitude on galestro soils. This was Paulo’s final vintage before parting with his beloved estate to new owners and what a swan song it is.
Edward Richardson, Private Client Manager, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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