2021 Anjou, Grolleau, Clau de Nell, Loire
Critics reviews
The 2021 Grolleau is full of personality—spicy and herbal, almost like a good tequila with its savoury, agave character. Youthful and full of cool-climate energy and bright acidity, it's an alarm clock of a wine—there's no way your palate won't be woken up. Despite the challenging season in 2021, it feels more tamed and balanced than 2020. It's such fun, but you will have to like a bit of acid. Serve ever-so-slightly chilled.
Drink 2024 - 2027
Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous.com (January 2024)
About this WINE
Domaine Clau de Nell
The late Anne-Claude Leflaive, a world-renowned Burgundian Chardonnay producer, bought Domaine Clau de Nell in 2008 with her husband, Christian Jacques. Already identified as an up-and-coming Estate, having superb terroir and vines over 60 years old on average with some over 100 years, Anne Claude and her team heightened the Domaine to a new dimension.
The 8 hectares of Cabernet Franc, Grolleau, and Cabernet Sauvignon have been biodynamic since 2000. The team is making four different cuvees: Grolleau (an indigenous variety from the Loire), Cabernet Franc, Violette (both Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon), and finally a Chenin with a Burgundian flair.
Anjou-Saumur
Anjou-Saumur is a Mid-west Loire region most famous for the fine sweet Chenin Blanc wines of Bonnezeaux, Coteaux du Layon (including the exemplary - if tiny- Quarts de Chaume appellation) and Coteaux de l'Aubance.
The bulk of the wines produced in the Anjou region comprise the bland `Rosé d'Anjou' (made from the Grolleau grape) and marginally better Cabernet d'Anjou; Some smoky dry Anjou Chenin Blanc also produced.
The Saumur region's bread and butter is its Mousseux, while it also produces some dry Saumur Chenin (similar to Anjou's version) and some impressive Cabernet Franc, chalky dry thanks to the `tuffeau' soils.
Grolleau
Grolleau is a red grape primarily grown in the Loire Valley of France and is particularly associated with the Anjou and Touraine regions. It's known for its use in producing red wines, often characterised by bright acidity and fruity flavours.
The grape clusters are generally large, and the berries are medium-sized with thin skins. The grapes have a light red to dark red colour. The wines are known for their lively acidity and vibrant fruit flavours and are often light to medium-bodied. Typical tasting notes include red berries, raspberries, strawberries, and floral and herbal undertones.
Grolleau is frequently used in blends, adding freshness and a lively character to the wines. It is sometimes blended with grape varieties, such as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Gamay. In addition to still red wines, the variety is also used to produce rosé wines.
Some producers, especially those following biodynamic and organic farming practices, appreciate Grolleau's ability to thrive in such vineyard environments. These practices align with the overall commitment to sustainability and minimal intervention.
While Grolleau is a significant grape variety in the Loire Valley, it might not be as widely recognised globally as other varieties. Nevertheless, its contribution to the distinctive character of wines from the region, particularly in Anjou and Touraine, is notable.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
The 2021 Grolleau is full of personality—spicy and herbal, almost like a good tequila with its savoury, agave character. Youthful and full of cool-climate energy and bright acidity, it's an alarm clock of a wine—there's no way your palate won't be woken up. Despite the challenging season in 2021, it feels more tamed and balanced than 2020. It's such fun, but you will have to like a bit of acid. Serve ever-so-slightly chilled.
Drink 2024 - 2027
Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous.com (January 2024)
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