2021 Mountain Blanco, Telmo Rodríguez, Sierras de Málaga, Spain
Critics reviews
Full bottle 1,196 g. In 1995, Telmo Rodríguez and his business partner Pablo Eguzkia established Molino Real in Málaga with a view to reviving the region’s ‘Mountain Wine’. Located in Axarquía in the east of Málaga, the vineyards are grown at some of the highest elevations in this area, between 550 and 1,000 m, in the villages of Cómpeta and Archez. This region is the driest of the five subzones of Málaga, and is also well-known for raisin production from the DO Pasas de Málaga. Shallow, stony and fine-textured soil suits the bush-vine Muscat of Alexandria. The grapes were hand harvested and then pressed using a traditional, artisanal method: the grapes were placed between two mats made from esparto (a straw-like material) and then crushed using an olive-oil press. The wine was then aged in bottle for 9–12 months before being released. Mountain Wine was traditionally a sweet style but this is a dry version. (MR is the sweet version.)
Intense grapey aroma, but also wild herbs and vibrant green fruits. On the day after opening there's a slight fumey/herbal aroma, not unlike spontaneously fermented Riesling. Bone dry but gives a slight impression of sweetness because of the grapey charater. Full and generous in the mouth, almost viscous, but still surprisingly fresh. Intense, long and aromatic on the palate. This may not appeal to everyone but it's a classic wine of the region, even if the dry style is less usual. Fascinating and complex. I am not sure how this will age so I have been rather cautious in my suggested drinking window.
Drink 2024 - 2027
Julia Harding MW, Jancisrobinson.com (April 2024)
12,011 bottles were filled in July 2022.
The 2021 Mountain Blanco is balsamic, herbal and minty, quite expressive and not excessively varietal. Harvest was early—they started the 16th of August—and cropped from a very warm year that delivered low yields. The wine has 13.5% alcohol and a low pH that makes it quite balanced and fresh. It's still very young and a little reductive, but it was very recently bottled, and that's normal for a wine that matures exclusively in stainless steel. It has a round palate with marked flavours and a faint bitter twist in the finish. It's still closed and will be better with one more year in bottle.
Drink 2024 - 2027
Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate (July 2023)
About this WINE
Telmo Rodriguez
Telmo Rodriguez is one of the great Spanish winemakers. He travelled and learnt for many years before returning home to Rioja. In addition, he supervises négociant projects throughout Spain. One of his most acclaimed projects is in Ribera del Duero.
The charismatic Telmo has something of the prodigal about him, having now returned to his Riojan homestead to energise the great house of Remelluri. One should not overlook, however, his other properties, which explore some of the lesser-known areas of Spain and in each case seek to make superlative and characterful wines. Ribera del Duero is far from a lesser-known area, so it is to Telmo’s great credit, but to no-one’s surprise, that the wines he makes at Matallana are amongst the very best here too.
Málaga
Málaga is a historic wine-producing region located in the southernmost part of Spain, within the autonomous community of Andalusia. Various civilizations have influenced its wine industry, including the Phoenicians, Romans, Moors, and later Christian settlers. Today, it remains an important area for producing unique and traditional wines.
Málaga benefits from a warm Mediterranean climate, with hot summers and mild winters. The vineyards are often situated on steep, terraced slopes, maximizing sun exposure for the grapevines. The region's proximity to the Mediterranean Sea also influences its climate, helping moderate temperatures and cooling sea breezes.
The region is primarily known for producing sweet, fortified wines from Muscat of Alexandria (locally known as Moscatel) and Pedro Ximénez grapes. These varieties thrive in the region's warm climate and produce wines with rich flavors and high sugar content.
Sweet and fortified wines fall into two main categories: Málaga and Sierras de Málaga, both of which are typically made using the sun-drying process known as "pasificación" or "asoleo," where harvested grapes are laid out in the sun to concentrate their sugars before fermentation. This traditional method results in luscious, sweet wines with complex raisins, dried fruits, and honey flavors.
There are various styles of Málaga wines, ranging from light and refreshing to rich and viscous.
Málaga Dulce (Sweet Málaga) is rich and sweet, often enjoyed as dessert wine or paired with pastries, nuts, and cheeses.
Málaga Pálido (Pale Málaga) is lighter in style, with a delicate sweetness and nutty flavors.
Málaga Trasañejo is an aged wine that undergoes extended aging, developing more complex and concentrated flavors.
Historically, Málaga was a significant wine region during the Roman Empire, and its wines were highly regarded in the ancient world. Later, during the 19th century, Málaga wines gained popularity internationally and were exported to many countries, including the United States and the United Kingdom.
While the production of sweet, fortified wines remains the region's traditional focus, there has been a growing interest in producing dry wines from international grape varieties like Chardonnay and Syrah. Some wineries also experiment with different winemaking techniques to create modern, innovative wines.
Moscatel
The Moscatel grape, or Muscat, is a highly aromatic and versatile grape variety cultivated in wine regions worldwide. It is one of the oldest known grape varieties, with a long history dating back thousands of years.
It is believed to have originated in the Mediterranean region, specifically in ancient Greece or Egypt. It has since spread to many wine-producing countries, including Spain, Italy, France, Portugal, Australia, South Africa, and the United States.
One of the distinctive characteristics of the Moscatel grape is its intense and captivating aroma. It often displays floral notes, such as orange blossom, rose petals, and jasmine, and fruit-driven aromas, like citrus, peach, apricot, and tropical fruits.
Moscatel is a versatile grape variety used to produce a range of wine styles. It can be used to make dry wines, showcasing the aromatic character alongside crisp acidity and balanced flavours. However, it is more commonly associated with producing sweet and fortified wines, including Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, Moscato d'Asti, and Muscat de Rivesaltes. These wines often exhibit luscious sweetness, rich fruit flavours, and a characteristic grapey taste.
In addition to still and fortified wines, the Moscatel grape produces sparkling wines, such as Moscato d'Asti and Asti Spumante, known for their light effervescence and fruity character.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
Full bottle 1,196 g. In 1995, Telmo Rodríguez and his business partner Pablo Eguzkia established Molino Real in Málaga with a view to reviving the region’s ‘Mountain Wine’. Located in Axarquía in the east of Málaga, the vineyards are grown at some of the highest elevations in this area, between 550 and 1,000 m, in the villages of Cómpeta and Archez. This region is the driest of the five subzones of Málaga, and is also well-known for raisin production from the DO Pasas de Málaga. Shallow, stony and fine-textured soil suits the bush-vine Muscat of Alexandria. The grapes were hand harvested and then pressed using a traditional, artisanal method: the grapes were placed between two mats made from esparto (a straw-like material) and then crushed using an olive-oil press. The wine was then aged in bottle for 9–12 months before being released. Mountain Wine was traditionally a sweet style but this is a dry version. (MR is the sweet version.)
Intense grapey aroma, but also wild herbs and vibrant green fruits. On the day after opening there's a slight fumey/herbal aroma, not unlike spontaneously fermented Riesling. Bone dry but gives a slight impression of sweetness because of the grapey charater. Full and generous in the mouth, almost viscous, but still surprisingly fresh. Intense, long and aromatic on the palate. This may not appeal to everyone but it's a classic wine of the region, even if the dry style is less usual. Fascinating and complex. I am not sure how this will age so I have been rather cautious in my suggested drinking window.
Drink 2024 - 2027
Julia Harding MW, Jancisrobinson.com (April 2024)
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