2021 Côte de Brouilly, Les Griottes de Brulhié, Château Thivin, Beaujolais
Critics reviews
Bursting with aromas of sweet red berries, rose petals, cracked pepper and orange rind, the 2021 Côte de Brouilly Les Griottes de Brulhié is medium to full-bodied, taut and tangy, with supple tannins, racy acids and a long, saline finish. From high-altitude, southeast-facing holdings, it's one of the more tensile wines in this year's portfolio.
Drink 2021 - 2031
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (August 2022)
About this WINE
Chateau Thivin
Château Thivin, located in the Côte de Brouilly, is renowned for its distinctive volcanic soils and early-ripening fruit. This small appellation, one of the ten Beaujolais Crus, offers a unique terroir expertly showcased through the estate's various single-vineyard cuvées. Each of the estate's ten plots, spread around the steep hill of Côte de Brouilly, brings its own character, combining to create fresh, structured, and concentrated wines, making them appealing both in youth and with age.
Owned by the Geoffray family since 1877, the estate is managed by fifth-generation Claude and Evelyne Geoffray, along with their son Claude-Edouard and daughter-in-law Sonia. Château Thivin spans 27 hectares across more than ten distinct plots in Côte de Brouilly, with additional plots in Brouilly and Theizé. The estate produces at least five single-vineyard cuvées each vintage, along with their flagship blend, Sept Vignes, which harmoniously combines the characteristics of seven different parcels.
The vineyards feature the three signature soil types of the appellation: blue volcanic rock, granite, and clay/limestone, supporting primarily Gamay and Chardonnay. Sustainable viticulture practices are a hallmark of Château Thivin, including grass between vines to prevent erosion, encourage soil health, and use pygmy sheep for winter grass control. Grapes are sorted meticulously and vinified separately in cement cuves, aged in foudres for six to twelve months. Certified by Terra Vitis and transitioning to organic farming, the winery also employs biodynamic practices like bottling at the full moon.
Côte de Brouilly
The Côte de Brouilly is one of the most distinguished among the ten Beaujolais Crus, located in the heart of the Beaujolais region in eastern France. This small but significant appellation is set on the slopes of Mont Brouilly, an extinct volcano, which imparts a unique character to the wines produced here. The terroir of Côte de Brouilly is defined by its blue volcanic rock and granite soils, which contribute to the wines' distinctive mineral quality and complexity.
Viticulture in Côte de Brouilly benefits from the varied topography and microclimates around the hill, allowing for optimal ripening conditions for the Gamay grape, the predominant variety grown in the region. These volcanic and granite soils provide excellent drainage and encourage deep root systems, which help the vines withstand drought and produce concentrated, flavourful grapes. The result is wines with notable freshness, structure, and a distinct minerality that are enjoyable when young and capable of ageing gracefully.
The wines of Côte de Brouilly are characterised by their vibrant fruit flavours, often showcasing red berries, cherries, and a hint of spice. The volcanic influence adds a subtle smoky note, enhancing the complexity and depth of the wines. The region's unwavering commitment to quality viticulture is evident in the meticulous care taken in the vineyards, where sustainable practices are increasingly adopted to preserve the health of the soils and the environment, ensuring a high standard of the wines.
Gamay
A French variety planted predominately in Beaujolais where it is the grape behind everything from light and often acidic Beaujolais Nouveau through to the more serious and well-structured wines from the 10 cru villages. It takes its name from a hamlet just outside Chassagne-Montrachet and was at one stage widely planted on the Côte d`Or. However it was gradually phased out due to its poor yield and supposed poor quality of its wines.
The majority of Gamay wines in Beaujolais are labelled as Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages and are deliciously juicy, easy drinking, gulpable wines. Of more interest are the Cru wines from the 10 villages in the north of the region where the soil is predominantly granitic schist and where the vines are planted on gently undulating slopes. These can be well-structured, intensely perfumed wines, redolent of ripe black fruits and, while delicious young, will reward medium term cellaring.
Gamay is also grown in the Touraine region of the Loire where it produces soft, well-balanced, gluggable wines for drinking young.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
Bursting with aromas of sweet red berries, rose petals, cracked pepper and orange rind, the 2021 Côte de Brouilly Les Griottes de Brulhié is medium to full-bodied, taut and tangy, with supple tannins, racy acids and a long, saline finish. From high-altitude, southeast-facing holdings, it's one of the more tensile wines in this year's portfolio.
Drink 2021 - 2031
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (August 2022)
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