2021 Pernand-Vergelesses, Les Fichots, 1er Cru, Domaine Rollin Père & Fils, Burgundy
Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (January 2023)
About this WINE
This is a fourth-generation domaine, Raymond Rollin having been joined by his son Maurice in 1955, followed by Rémi from 1976 and Simon from 2003. The vineyard holdings stretch as far as neighbouring Aloxe, Savigny and Chorey, but the core of the domaine is in Pernand-Vergelesses including white premier cru Sous Frétille and reds Vergelesses, Fichots and Ile de Vergelesses. There is also 0.42 hectare of Corton-Charlemagne. This is a sound source of long-lived wines in both colours.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.
Pernand-Vergelesses is a beautiful, small village tucked away behind the hill of Corton. Coming from Beaune, you have the Vergelesses and excellent Ile des Vergelesses vineyards on your left, facing due east, and the Corton-Charlemagne vineyards on the right, facing south-west. The red wines of Pernand (60 percent of production), excepting the two Vergelesses vineyards, can be on the austere side while the whites are racy and mineral.
Pernand-Vergelesses is an excellent source for fine Burgundy at a relatively affordable price. Jadot have registered their own name, Le Clos de la Croix de Pierre (The Stone Cross), in a vineyard which is shown on the maps as En Caradeux, facing the mighty hill of Corton. The lower part of the slope is an excellent site for Pinot Noir, while whites are grown on lighter soils higher up.
- 138 hectares of village Pernand-Vergelesses and 57 hectares of Premier Cru
- Recommended producers: Chandon de Briailles, Sylvain Loichet, Louis Jadot
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
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This comes from just over two-thirds of a hectare of 60-year-old vines planted on brown, iron-rich soil. Fichots is cooler site, facing east and located towards the foot of the slope, and is therefore shaded slightly by the hill of Corton for some of the day. Hence there is a slight sense of austerity but there is also some excellent dark, sour cherry fruit. The true test is the palate, which is complete and balanced. Drink 2025-2033
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