2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, La Crau, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Rhône

Vieux Télégraphe

Vieux Télégraphe, situated on the famed La Crau plateau in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in the Southern Rhône Valley, is celebrated for its distinctive terroir. The Bruniers, who began cultivating the land in 1898, now manage 70 hectares here. The plateau's galets roulés (pudding stones) absorb and re-radiate the sun’s heat, creating a warm microclimate that supports even grape ripening. The underlying clay subsoil helps counterbalance excess heat by maintaining vine hydration and coolness, while the altitude and exposure to the Mistral wind protect against disease and frost.

The 2021 vintage at Vieux Télégraphe faced challenges with flash frost affecting the region, though the estate largely escaped the worst damage. Despite some impact on Pallières, the main vineyards, including La Crau, emerged relatively unscathed. The year saw a slight drop in yields, with overall production down by around 30%. Winemaker Daniel Brunier characterised the vintage as classic, noting its freshness and balance. The later harvest contributed to a concentration of flavours, and Brunier anticipates that the wines will reveal exciting developments as they age.

Besides their Châteauneuf-du-Pape holdings, the Brunier family also owns Domaine des Pallières in Gigondas, where they experienced fewer issues from frost and rainfall. Daniel Brunier is particularly proud of the 2021 vintage here, describing the wines as pure, linear, and well-balanced with moderate alcohol levels. He considers the Racines cuvée among his finest achievements, highlighting the estate’s commitment to quality and finesse across their properties.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The most celebrated village of the Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the birthplace of the now indispensable French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system – imperfect though it may be. Compared to the Northern Rhône, the vineyards here are relatively flat and often feature the iconic galet pebbles – the precise benefits of which are a source of much debate. Minimum alcohol levels required by the AOC are the highest in France, but at 12.5% it is well below the natural generosity of Grenache, which only achieves its full aromatic potential when it is fully ripe and laden with the resultant high sugars. Syrah and Mourvèdre contribute the other defining elements in the blend, adding pepper, savoury spice and structure to the decadent Grenache. There are a further 10 permitted red grape varieties which can be used to adjust the “seasoning”. Of the five white varieties permitted, it is Grenache Noir’s sibling – predictably perhaps – Grenache Blanc, which dominates, though Roussanne shows a great deal of promise when handled well, notably at Château de Beaucastel.

Clairette

Clairette is a white grape with a long history and is widely grown in various wine regions, particularly in France and other Mediterranean countries. It is known for producing wines with diverse styles, from dry to sweet and sparkling to still.

The variety is believed to have originated in the Rhône Valley, with historical references dating back to the 16th century. Nowadays, it is grown in several other Mediterranean regions, including Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Southern Rhône, and certain areas in Spain, Italy, and Algeria.

Clairette is a vigorous and high-yielding vine, making it relatively easy to grow in the vineyard. It prefers warm and sunny climates, which need plenty of sunlight to ripen fully. The grape clusters are medium-sized and compact.

The wines can vary in style, depending on the region and winemaking techniques. In some areas, it is used in blends to add acidity and structure, while in others, it can be the dominant grape in varietal wines.

The dry white wines typically exhibit delicate aromas of white flowers, citrus fruits, and sometimes hints of herbs. In certain regions, the variety is used to make sweet wines, either as a late-harvest style or as a component in fortified wines, such as the famous Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise. Clairette is also used to produce sparkling wines, adding freshness and acidity to the blends.