2021 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, J.J Prüm
Critics reviews
Smoky grapefruit aroma with a light touch of stone dust. Sweeter and a little more concentrated on the palate than the Graacher Himmelreich Auslese, with notes of just-ripe apricot. Glorious ripe fruit balanced by the acidity. A baby.
Drink 2026 - 2038
Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com (November 2022)
A surprisingly open nose defines the 2021 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese, revealing a herbal savour reminiscent of moss, chervil, and carrot top, but just a hint.
The palate is a gorgeously concentrated stream of ripe citrus, combining the aromatic intensity and ripeness of Amalfi lemon, the brightness of lime and the sweetness of sugared orange flesh.
So direct, so precise, sweet but utterly balanced. Clear as a bell. (Sweet).
Drink 2030 - 2050
Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous.com (April 2023)
About this WINE
Weingut Joh Jos Prum
Prüm is one of the finest estates in the Mosel. Founded by Johann Josef Prüm in 1911, the winery rapidly built a reputation for its racy, pure expressions of Riesling, grown on the extraordinarily steep, slate slopes in the heart of the Mosel. Today, the estate is run by Dr Katharina Prüm who watches over 13.5 hectares of vines – including some rare ungrafted vines.
The family’s holdings include many of the Mittelmosel’s most famous sites: Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Graacher Domprobst, Bernkasteler Lay, Bernkasteler Badstube and Bernkasteler Bratenhöfchen. Yields are low, with the harvest often stretching to late November. The winemaking is meticulous, but the extra effort is worth it. The resulting wines are known for their purity of fruit as well as their distinctive mineral character.
Mosel
The Mosel wine region in Germany is renowned for its high-quality white wines, especially Riesling. Its unique terroir of steep slopes, slate soils, and cool climate contributes to the wines' distinctive character.
Riesling dominates the vineyard plantings, and the region follows a vineyard classification system based on ripeness levels. Historic vineyards, such as Erdener Prälat and Wehlener Sonnenuhr, produce exceptional wines.
The Mosel offers various styles, from crisp Kabinett and rich dessert wines. The region's wine culture is celebrated through multiple festivals, making it a must-visit destination for wine enthusiasts.
Riesling
Riesling's twin peaks are its intense perfume and its piercing crisp acidity which it manages to retain even at high ripeness levels.
In Germany, Riesling constitutes around 20% of total plantings, yet it is responsible for all its greatest wines. It is planted widely on well-drained, south-facing slate-rich slopes, with the greatest wines coming from the best slopes in the best villages. It produces delicate, racy, nervy and stylish wines that cover a wide spectrum of flavours from steely and bone dry with beautifully scented fruits of apples,apricots, and sometimes peaches, through to the exotically sweet flavours of the great sweet wines.
It is also an important variety in Alsace where it produces slightly earthier, weightier and fuller wines than in Germany. The dry Rieslings can be austere and steely with hints of honey while the Vendages Tardives and Sélection de Grains Nobles are some of the greatest sweet wines in the world.
It is thanks to the New World that Riesling is enjoying a marked renaissance. In Australia the grape has developed a formidable reputation, delivering lime-sherbet fireworks amid the continental climate of Clare Valley an hour's drive north of Adelaide, while Barossa's Eden Valley is cooler still, producing restrained stony lime examples from the elevated granitic landscape; Tasmania is fast becoming their third Riesling mine, combining cool temperatures with high UV levels to deliver stunning prototypes.
New Zealand shares a similar climate, with Riesling and Pinot Gris neck to neck in their bid to be the next big thing after Sauvignon Blanc; perfectly suited is the South Island's Central Otago, with its granitic soils and continental climate, and the pebbly Brightwater area near Nelson. While Australia's Rieslings tend to be full-bodied & dry, the Kiwis are more inclined to be lighter bodied, more ethereal and sometimes off-dry; Alsace plays Mosel if you like.
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Description
Though still very young, this wine shows its incredible potential immediately on the nose, with tightly coiled aromas of pink grapefruit, apples and lilies. The palate shows a real tension between the acidity and the well integrated residual sugar, with a suppleness that belies its youth. The finish very gradually unfolds in the mouth, with hints of the complexity to come. This will be delightful in 20 years and truly magnificent in 30.
Barbara Drew MW, September 2023. Drink now to 2055.
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