2021 Roero Arneis, Bruno Giacosa, Piedmont, Italy

Bruno Giacosa

Giacosa are revered globally, with a reputation built on the elegance, purity and complexity of wines produced over the lifetime of Bruno Giacosa, who died in 2018. Over the course of 60 years, he came to be recognised as one of Piedmont's greatest winemakers. In 1945, at the age of 16, Bruno began working full-time in the family cellar. Rather than studying oenology, he instead absorbed the traditional knowledge and techniques passed down through his family. His approach was deeply considered, single-minded and perfectionist. Famously exacting and modest, he let his wines speak for themselves. Since 2006, the estate has been ably run by Bruno’s daughter, Bruna. Bruno’s standards have been upheld, with continued, unwavering commitment to producing wines of both the highest quality and of true vineyard expression. Since the 2012 vintage, all of their Barbaresco and Barolo have been made exclusively from estate-grown fruit.

There was a degree of circumspection here around the 2019 vintage. While it is certainly felt to be a good year – and a step up from 2018 – 2016 is seen as the paradigm, with 2019 not quite hitting its heights. Regardless of that, 2019 is still praised as having “everything”, and is considered a vintage that is balanced and complete. However, Giacosa have opted not to make their Vigna dei Rocche Riserva this year, and are delaying the release of the non-Riserva 2019 until later in 2023.

Arneis Di Roero

Roero is a wine appellation in Piedmont in north-west Italy, awarded DOCG status in 2006. It is located few kilometres from the villages famous for Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, Dolcetto – and Asti Spumante.

Roero wines include the red Roero (made from 95-98 percent Nebbiolo grapes with a dash of white Arneis), as well as the white Roero Arneis, and sparkling Roero Arneis Spumante.

Red Roero wines undertake a minimum ageing of 20 months, six of which are in wooden barrels, while Roero Riserva must age for at least 32 months.

Arneis

Arneis means "rascal" in Italian, and is so named for its ability to beguile the most patient winemakers. It is a  delicate white wine grape that originated (and is still primarily grown) in the Roero hills of Italy's southern Piedmont, just north of Alba ; it thrives in the chalky and sandy soil of this region.

Once nearly extinct, Arneis has made a comeback in recent years. The Arneis de Roero wines received DOC status in 1989 and DOCG in 2006 and production is on the rise, as consumers have come to appreciate its its distinctive apricot and tangerine aromas.

It can produce very good wines with perfumy characteristics of apples, pears, and a hint of licorice. The wines, usually sold as Roero Arneis DOCG.