2021 Bonnes-Mares, Grand Cru, Domaine Bertheau, Burgundy
Critics reviews
From a .344 ha parcel located in 100% terres rouges.
A more deeply pitched nose features notes of dark berries, plum, and newly turned earth, the latter of which is reflected by the bigger-bodied and more powerful medium-weight flavours that possess good richness as well as a seductive mid-palate. All this is wrapped in a balanced, complex, and only mildly austere finale. In contrast to the Amoureuses, which could be approached young, this will need patience.
Drink from 2031 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (January 2023)
The deepest, most structured cuvée in the cellar is the 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy effort evocative of raspberries, plums, orange zest, peonies, potpourri and spices. Layered and seamless, it's a supple, charming wine that exhibits good depth and persistence.
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (January 2023)
About this WINE
Domaine Bertheau
Domaine Bertheau is managed by François Bertheau, who took over from his father Pierre in 2003. I feel a special affection for this domaine as the carpenter who worked on our house in Burgundy (Daniel Sirandré, now retired – he really liked doing staircases) used to work part-time for the Bertheaus, and he presented us with a Bonnes Mares 1985 and a bottle of Chambolle Amoureuses 1972 when we dropped in to pay the bill. As well as those two vineyards François Bertheau, who took over from his father Pierre in 2003, produces Les Charmes and a blended Chambolle premier cru made from Les Groseilles, Gruenchers, Noirots and Baudes.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.
Morey-Saint-Denis
Morey is sometimes ignored between its two famous neighbours, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin, but its wines are of equal class, combining elegance and structure. Morey-St Denis, being that little bit less famous, can often provide excellent value.
The four main Grand Cru vineyards continue in a line from those of Gevrey-Chambertin, with Clos St Denis and Clos de la Roche the most widely available. Clos des Lambrays (almost) and Clos de Tart (entirely) are monopolies of the domains which bear the same names.
Domaine Dujac and Domaine Ponsot also make rare white wines in Morey-St Denis.
- 64 hectares of village Morey-St Denis
- 33 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (20 in all). Best vineyards include Les Charmes, Les Millandes, Clos de la Bussière, Les Monts Luisants
- 40 hectares of Grand Cru vineyard. Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de la Roche, Clos St Denis and a tiny part of Bonnes Mares
- Recommended Producers: Dujac, Ponsot, Clos de Tart, Domaine des Lambrays
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
From a .344 ha parcel located in 100% terres rouges.
A more deeply pitched nose features notes of dark berries, plum, and newly turned earth, the latter of which is reflected by the bigger-bodied and more powerful medium-weight flavours that possess good richness as well as a seductive mid-palate. All this is wrapped in a balanced, complex, and only mildly austere finale. In contrast to the Amoureuses, which could be approached young, this will need patience.
Drink from 2031 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (January 2023)
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