2022 Vouvray, Sec, Domaine Vincent Carême, Loire
Critics reviews
The 2022 Vouvray Sec is a perfumed, tender style. It is a serious wine that's bone dry with a grown-up element of tannins providing muscle and structure. In its youth, it offers up fresh apples, pears and peaches, nodding to the warmer season. It is quite tense right now and needs some time to relax. But it was a shorter bottling. I think this needs a bit of time to come out.
Domaine Vincent Carême is one of the appellation’s leading lights. Starting in 1999, Vincent Carême was a member of the younger generation implementing what was viewed as artisanal ideas in the early 2000s, including organics and low sulfur regimes. Carême is now part of the Vouvray furniture, and these seemingly new ideas are now integral to the appellation’s ascendancy.
Drink 2024 - 2033
Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous.com (October 2023)
About this WINE
Vincent Carême
Vincent Carême is a leading light of the Vouvray appellation who set up his domaine from scratch in 1999. His is not a family business – his parents are cereal farmers – but his rise to prominence has been nothing short of meteoric. A pioneer of organic viticulture in the Loire, he teaches at the Lycée Viticole in Amboise and acts as a mentor to many younger growers in the region.
The estate makes the full range of wines: sparkling, sec, demi-sec, and moelleux, and the 24 hectares of vines used to produce his domaine wines are organically certified. Initially, as a means of raising capital but now a way of satisfying burgeoning demand for his wines, he also set up a ‘négociant’ business buying grapes and juice to make wines under the Vincent & Tania Carême label. Not satisfied with making some of the finest wines in the Loire, Vincent also makes a range of wines in the Swartland in South Africa.
Vouvray
Based just outside Tours, in the Touraine district of the Loire, the small, 2,000-hectare semi-continental Vouvray appellation covers a range of dry, through off-dry, sweet to sparkling styles. Its Chenin Blanc vineyards, perched above chalky tuffeau cliffs give the wines vibrant acidity and a stony, floral and at times waxy character.
Ideally, under perfect skies, the producers aim for moelleux sweet wines, hand-harvested by trie, often imbued with noble rot and rich with residual sugar.
A less successful season would deliver more demi-sec, sec and, if really tough, sparkling mousseaux. Vinification is principally in large, inert vessels such as stainless-steel, old oak foudres and demi-muids. Malolactic fermentation is avoided.
Chenin Blanc
Chenin Blanc is an important white grape variety planted in the Anjou-Saumur and Touraine regions of the Loire Valley and the most widely planted varietal grape in South Africa.
In the Loire it produces high quality dry wines in Savenniéres, and luscious sweet, dessert wines in Coteaux du Layon, Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume. In Vouvray and Montlouis it can be dry, medium dry, or sweet, and still or sparkling. Whether dry or sweet, the best Loire Chenin Blancs possess marvellously concentrated rich, honeyed fruit together with refreshingly vibrant acidity. It is Chenin Blanc's high acidity that enable the wines to age so well.
In South Africa Chenin Blanc is easier to grow and is prized for its versatility. It is used as a cheap blending option with Chardonnay, Colombard, and Muscat but also bottled unblended. The best producers keep their yields low and produce impressive mouthfilling wines.
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Description
Vincent’s Vouvray Sec is a benchmark for the appellation, drawn from a variety of vineyards with different soil types and expositions. It is made entirely in used, large-format oak barrels, adding complexity without any oak character. The 2022 vintage was warm, reflected in the ripe yellow apple fruit on the nose and pleasing mid-palate generosity.
The exuberance is kept in check by a spine-tingling acidity and dry, grippy chalk texture that grabs at the sides of your tongue and leaves you reaching for the next sip.
Drink now - 2032
Adam Bruntlett, Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (June 2024)
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