2022 Pagodes de Cos, St Estèphe, Bordeaux
Critics reviews
The 2022 Pagodes de Cos, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 49% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc, is deep garnet-purple in color. It charges out with energetic notes of crushed blackberries, blackcurrant pastilles, and juicy black plums, giving way to notions of pencil shavings, tapenade, lavender, and cracked black pepper. The medium to full-bodied palate is bright and refreshing, deliver a solid backbone of firm, grainy tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing long and minerally.
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, The Wine Independent (May 2023)
Jane Anson, janeanson.com (May 2023)
Jancis Robinson MW, jancisrobinson.com (May 2023)
Aromas of rich berries, plums, spices and pencil shavings introduce the 2022 Les Pagodes de Cos, a medium to full-bodied, rich and muscular wine that's fleshy and extracted while remaining somewhat fresh and vibrant.
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (April 2023)
This is impressive, big and very structured at the beginning, but then it opens and spreads out with ultra-fine tannins that caress the palate. Really opens at the end and finds its weightless state. Serious. 50% cabernet sauvignon and 49% merlot, 1% cabernet franc.
James Suckling, jamessuckling.com (April 2023)
The 2022 Pagodes De Cos is head-turning good, and it’s going to challenge the 2009 as the greatest vintage for this cuvée to date. Based on 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 49% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc, this huge, opulent, full-bodied beauty has terrific purity in its cassis and blueberry fruits as well as notes of graphite, scorched earth, and tobacco. With sweet tannins, a layered, seamless mouthfeel, and a gorgeous finish, this is an incredible second wine that readers will love.
Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com (May 2023)
About this WINE
Cos d'Estournel
Château Cos d`Estournel is named after its 19th century owner, Louis-Gaspard d'Estournel, and it was he who built the bizarre oriental edifice that is a landmark for any tourist in the Médoc. Today Cos d'Estournel is without doubt the leading estate in St-Estéphe. It is located in the south of the appellation on the border with Pauillac and its vineyards are superbly sited on a south-facing gravel ridge with a high clay content, just north of Lafite.
Cos d'Estournel is typically a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc - do not be fooled by the relatively high Merlot content, as these are full-bodied, dark, brooding tannic wines when young which develop a complexity and intensity that can rival many top growths from Pauillac.
In 1998 the Prats family sold Cos d'Estournel to The Tailan Group. Cos d'Estournel is classified as a 2ème Cru Classé.
Saint-Estèphe
Saint-Estèphe is the northernmost of the most important communes of the Médoc and borders Pauillac on its southernmost border, with only a gully and stream separates it from Ch. Lafite. To the north lies the Bas-Médoc.
Saint-Estèphe is defined by the depth of its gravel, which is ubiquitous but of varying depths and occasionally very shallow, when clay predominates. This keeps the soil cooler and wetter than its counterparts so that the wines can appear fresh in lighter vintages, but superbly successful in hot, dry years.
The best châteaux in the south of the commune have the deepest soil and the thickest gravel. Cos d'Estournel has an exceptional terroir with its vineyards being located on a south-facing ridge of gravel with excellent drainage.
Saint-Estèphe is the least gravelly of main Médoc communes and in the north of the commune the vineyards are heavier and more clay-based leading to a rustic style of wine being produced.
The wines can appear austere in youth with a discernable ferric note at some châteaux, but the best typically display good depth of colour, pronounced acidity an tannins in youth and are exceptionally long-lived. At their best, they are the equal of almost any Bordeaux. The well-regarded St Estèphe co-operative controls the production of about half the appellation.
Recommended Châteaux
Cos (Ch. Cos d'Estournel), Ch. Montrose, Ch. Calon-Ségur, Ch. Lafon-Rochet, Ch. Les Ormes de Pez, Ch. Beau-Site, Ch. Cos Labory, Ch. Phélan-Ségur
Merlot/Cabernet Franc
Merlot and Cabernet Franc are grape varieties commonly used in Bordeaux-style blends, particularly in the Bordeaux region of France. When these two grapes are blended, they can create a wine that combines the best characteristics of each variety.
Merlot is known for its smoothness, soft tannins, and ripe fruit flavours. It often contributes black cherry, plum, and chocolate flavours to the blend. The grapes are relatively easy to grow and ripen earlier than other Bordeaux varieties, making them versatile for blending.
Cabernet Franc, on the other hand, adds structure, depth, and complexity to the blend. It typically brings aromas of red fruits such as raspberry and strawberry, along with herbal notes like bell pepper and tobacco. These grapes have thinner skins and can be more challenging to cultivate, requiring specific growing conditions to reach their full potential.
When Merlot and Cabernet Franc are combined, the result is a well-balanced wine with various flavours and aromas. The blend often exhibits a Bordeaux wine's medium to full body, along with a smooth texture and moderate tannins. The specific flavour profile can vary depending on the proportions of each grape in the blend and the terroir and winemaking techniques employed.
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Description
The emphasis is clearly on elegance, not a word often used to describe this vintage. There is a sense of restraint and St Estèphe’s graphite and ferric structure. The bouquet has plenty of lift and precision with both floral and red-fruit notes. The palate has a pleasing contrast between the ripeness of the vintage and a structure in which the bones are more evident. The tannins have a good sapidity and the wine flows with purpose. This doesn’t have the volume of the grand vin, and is not a reflection of it, but is a well-composed unit with its own, rather tasty, character.
Cabernet Sauvignon 50%; Merlot 49%; Cabernet Franc 1%.
Drink 2026-2038
Score: 16/20
Berry Bros. & Rudd (April 2023)
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