2022 Beaune, Les Tuvilains, 1er Cru, Domaine Des Croix, Burgundy

2022 Beaune, Les Tuvilains, 1er Cru, Domaine Des Croix, Burgundy

Product: 20228013062
Prices start from £68.00 per bottle (75cl). Buying options
2022 Beaune, Les Tuvilains, 1er Cru, Domaine Des Croix, Burgundy

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Description

From 80-year-old vines, this is not so effusive on the nose but then the energy kicks in on tasting. With lovely hints of red fruits and an overall friendliness, this will make another striking wine in the domaine’s impressive line-up.

Drink 2026 - 2035

Berry Bros. & Rudd

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Critics reviews

Neal Martin, Vinous92-94/100

Unlike other cuvées, the 2022 Beaune Tuvilains 1er Cru was de-stemmed entirely, although it gives the impression that a few stems are ‘in the mix.’ The palate is very well-balanced, with a patina of new oak that needs to be subsumed (this came from a one-year-old barrel). It is nicely structured with a gentle grip on the finish. Classy.

The Baune appellation would enjoy a much higher status if more producers made wines of the level David Croix regularly achieves. Alas, they don’t, but that does not preclude legions of Burgundy lovers from purchasing Croix’s wines, which sell for far more reasonable prices than many of his peers. My visit is always a frank exchange of views, around half of it off the record! We began by discussing the 2022 season in the exchanges I can publish.

“I like to look at the sunshine, heat and rain from April to December,” Croix tells me. “If you look, there were a lot of insolation hours, so we got an entire month of July on top of the average. That’s a lot of extra sunshine, giving lots of phenols and the wines’ dark colour. In terms of rain, we are a little below average. But June saw 175mm, and that made a big difference to how the vines behaved. That means you did not have as much hydric stress as in 2020. Also, the yields are larger, enhancing their transparency and elegance. I made almost a normal crop in 2021, so I’m only 10% up in 2022. There’s never just one element.”

“For me, the 2022s tend to be a little serious. I picked from September 1 to 8 at 41hL/ha. I’m not going to pick early just to have 12.5% alcohol, and there are two wines above 14% alcohol from the first two vineyards that I picked. There was a little shrivelling of grapes but not much, and I made a Rosé from the fruit that I sorted out that I gave to friends. I have more in 2023. I try to extract the potential in the fruit and the skins, so I do punch downs, etc., and I’m not so much into infusion. Punching down to me is not an insult.

Croix was one of the most impressive winemakers in the challenging 2021 season, and he repeated that success in 2022. The heart of the portfolio is his exemplary range of Beaune Premier Crus, not least outstanding in Pertuisots and Tuvilains that rank alongside his Corton Grand Crus. There are a couple of cuvées where I would have moderated the percentage of whole bunches, which Croix forced into higher levels due to the small quantities to fill the single barrel. As a winemaker who does not subscribe to the vogue for “infusion,” Croix macerates as minimally as possible, resulting in wines with ample body while retaining a sense of elegance and classicism.

Drink 2025 - 2040

Neal Martin, Vinous.com (January 2024)

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About this WINE

Domaine des Croix

Domaine des Croix

The former Domaine Duchet in Beaune has been bought by American Roger Forbes and his co-investors, and entrusted to the care of David Croix, the gifted winemaker for Camille Giroud. David, the emerging talent of the year according to Bourgogne Aujourd'hui magazine (issue no. 73) is in complete charge at the domaine, which has been renamed Domaine des Croix. The first vintage, 2005, comprised Corton-Charlemagne, Bourgogne Rouge, Beaune and various Beaune premiers crus from Pertuisots, Cent Vignes, Bressandes and Grèves. The vineyards have been farmed organically since 2008. From 2009 there will be Aloxe-Corton and Corton Grèves.

Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.

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Beaune

Beaune

The wines of Beaune are usually on the lighter side, especially if from the flatter vineyards on the Pommard side, or the sandier soils towards Savigny. The sturdiest wines with the greatest depth of flavour come from the steeper slopes overlooking the town itself.

The Hospices de Beaune charity auction on the third Sunday in November is one of the highlights of the year. The Hospices building, known as l'Hôtel-Dieu, is well worth visiting. Beaune is also home to several of the region’s best known merchants such as Maisons Louis Jadot and Joseph Drouhin.
  • 128 hectares of village Beaune and 52 hectares of Côte de Beaune
  • 322 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards. The finest vineyards include Les Grèves, Clos des Mouches
  • Recommended producers:  Germain, Devevey, Domaine des Croix, JadotDrouhinCamille Giroud.
  • Recommended restaurants: Ma Cuisine (not least for the wine list), Le Conty

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Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.

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When is a wine ready to drink?

We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.

Not ready

These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.

Ready - youthful

These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.

Ready - at best

These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.

Ready - mature

These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.