Critics reviews
80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. 50% new barrels.
The Thienponts of Le Pin’s newish acquisition next to Troplong Mondot on clay-limestone. After careful soil mapping, half of the estate was replanted with, for example, Cabernet Franc on the limestone.
Since 2021 all of the estate is now producing. So there is currently a high proportion of young vines, but apparently, they withstood the 2022 drought well. What didn’t go into the grand vin goes into Collines de l’If. Cyril Thienpont, son of Nicolas, is in charge.
Fragrant and sappy. Fresh and lively. Rich and racy. Clean and lightly sandy tannins on the end. Not the longest, but very nice and surely the best vintage yet of this wine. Lots of lifted limestone minerality.
Drink 2027 - 2037
Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com (May 2023)
About this WINE
L'If
L’If is the St Emilion outpost of Jacques Thienpont, best known as the proprietor of Le Pin in Pomerol. The Thienpont family bought L’If in 2010 and have carried out extensive replanting work on the nine-hectare property. The name L’If can be translated to “yew tree”. The portfolio also includes L’Hêtre in Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux.
St-Emilion
St Emilion is one of Bordeaux's largest producing appellations, producing more wine than Listrac, Moulis, St Estèphe, Pauillac, St Julien and Margaux put together. St Emilion has been producing wine for longer than the Médoc but its lack of accessibility to Bordeaux's port and market-restricted exports to mainland Europe meant the region initially did not enjoy the commercial success that funded the great châteaux of the Left Bank.
St Emilion itself is the prettiest of Bordeaux's wine towns, perched on top of the steep limestone slopes upon which many of the region's finest vineyards are situated. However, more than half of the appellation's vineyards lie on the plain between the town and the Dordogne River on sandy, alluvial soils with a sprinkling of gravel.
Further diversity is added by a small, complex gravel bed to the north-east of the region on the border with Pomerol. Atypically for St Emilion, this allows Cabernet Franc and, to a lesser extent, Cabernet Sauvignon to prosper and defines the personality of the great wines such as Ch. Cheval Blanc.
In the early 1990s there was an explosion of experimentation and evolution, leading to the rise of the garagistes, producers of deeply-concentrated wines made in very small quantities and offered at high prices. The appellation is also surrounded by four satellite appellations, Montagne, Lussac, Puisseguin and St. Georges, which enjoy a family similarity but not the complexity of the best wines.
St Emilion was first officially classified in 1954, and is the most meritocratic classification system in Bordeaux, as it is regularly amended. The most recent revision of the classification was in 2012
Merlot
The most widely planted grape in Bordeaux and a grape that has been on a relentless expansion drive throughout the world in the last decade. Merlot is adaptable to most soils and is relatively simple to cultivate. It is a vigorous naturally high yielding grape that requires savage pruning - over-cropped Merlot-based wines are dilute and bland. It is also vital to pick at optimum ripeness as Merlot can quickly lose its varietal characteristics if harvested overripe.
In St.Emilion and Pomerol it withstands the moist clay rich soils far better than Cabernet grapes, and at it best produces opulently rich, plummy clarets with succulent fruitcake-like nuances. Le Pin, Pétrus and Clinet are examples of hedonistically rich Merlot wines at their very best. It also plays a key supporting role in filling out the middle palate of the Cabernet-dominated wines of the Médoc and Graves.
Merlot is now grown in virtually all wine growing countries and is particularly successful in California, Chile and Northern Italy.
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Description
80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. 50% new barrels.
The Thienponts of Le Pin’s newish acquisition next to Troplong Mondot on clay-limestone. After careful soil mapping, half of the estate was replanted with, for example, Cabernet Franc on the limestone.
Since 2021 all of the estate is now producing. So there is currently a high proportion of young vines, but apparently, they withstood the 2022 drought well. What didn’t go into the grand vin goes into Collines de l’If. Cyril Thienpont, son of Nicolas, is in charge.
Fragrant and sappy. Fresh and lively. Rich and racy. Clean and lightly sandy tannins on the end. Not the longest, but very nice and surely the best vintage yet of this wine. Lots of lifted limestone minerality.
Drink 2027 - 2037
Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com (May 2023)
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