The 2022 Moulin Riche needed a little time to cohere in the glass. Picked from 2-28 September with 30-35% new oak, it has quite a high-toned bouquet, almost honeyed in style, yet it retains satisfying delineation with touches of melted tar and graphite. The palate is concentrated and very structured, maybe a little drier than the nose suggests, a powerful Moulin Riche with a lightly spiced, quite assertive finish. Fine.
Drink 2027 - 2047
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (April 2023)
The 2022 Moulin Riche is a big, almost shockingly dense wine in this vintage. Super-ripe black cherry, gravel, incense, tobacco and liquorice build nicely, but the intensity of the primary fruit really stands out in this tasting. The 2022 is an exotic Moulin Riche; that much is pretty clear.
Drink 2028 - 2042
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (April 2023)
Careful extraction of the rich, ripe berry fruits here, with edges of baked plum and raspberry, followed by black pepper, rosemary and underbrush. Intense, marked by the vintage, confident delivery, and welcome black chocolate bitterness on the finish. Harvest September 8 to 28, 20ha.
Drink 2025 - 2036
Jane Anson, JaneAnson.com (May 2023)
Aromatic and lifted with Cabernet-cassis notes to the fore. Velvety texture, the tannins finely honed. Poise, definition and length on the finish. Could be GV.
Drink 2029 - 2038
James Lawther MW, JancisRobinson.com (May 2023)
The 2022 Moulin Riche exhibits aromas of sweet dark berries, plums, pencil shavings and creamy new oak, followed by a medium to a full-bodied, rich and fleshy palate that's framed by sweet, generously extracted tannins that lend it a punchy, modern style.
It's a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot from a 20-hectare block located in inland Saint-Julien.
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (April 2023)
The blackcurrant and liquorice with graphite character are so attractive already. Medium body. Polished and pretty tannins. Lovely wine already.
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (April 2023)
Scented, sleek, almost soft and subtle - it's so smooth and tempting, velvety-textured with well-integrated tannins, chalky but ripe and sweet fruit with lifted acidity that isn't too high. Clove and dark chocolate nuances give the spice, but this is generous and comfortable still with power and poise. Julien Viaud consultant.
Drink 2026 - 2044
Georgina Hindle, Decanter.com (April 2023)
Another brilliant wine from the Cuvelier family, the 2022 Château Moulin Riche checks in as 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot harvested from the 8th to the 28th of September. Resting in 25% new oak, it has a beautiful nose of cassis and blue fruits and subtle espresso, damp earth, and chocolaty nuances.
Rich, medium to full-bodied, and structured, I could taste this beauty on multiple occasions, and it never failed to impress. The alcohol is 14.09%, the pH is 3.88, and the IPT is 87. This is a legit terrific wine.
Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com (May 2023)
About this WINE
Château Léoville Poyferré
Château Léoville Poyferré is a wine estate in St Julien on the Left Bank of Bordeaux. It was once part a larger estate called Léoville, which was established in 1638 and divided up centuries later following the death of its owner. That original estate gave rise to the three separate properties now called Léoville Barton, Léoville Las Cases and Léoville Poyferré. The latter took its name in 1840 from Baron Jean-Marie de Poyferré, who inherited the estate along with his wife, the daughter of Jeanne de Las Cases. Léoville Poyferré, like Barton and Las Cases, was ranked a Second Growth in the 1855 classification.
The estate has been owned and run since 1920 by the Cuvelier family. Having established themselves as wine merchants in Lille in Northern France, the family had recently bought Château Le Crock in St Estèphe before expanding into St Julien with both Léoville Poyferré and Château Moulin Riche. The family firm is led today by Sara Lecompte Cuvelier, who took over from her uncle Didier Cuvelier in 2017. She works with long-time winemaker Isabelle Davin. Michel Rolland has been the consultant here since the mid-1990s.
The portfolio here includes the grand vin, Château Léoville Poyferré, along with the estate’s second wine, Pavillon de Léoville Poyferré. Moulin Riche was once considered an unofficial second wine of Léoville Poyferré but has since 2009 been very much its own estate wine.
St Julien is the smallest of the "Big Four" Médoc communes. Although, without any First Growths, St Julien is recognised to be the most consistent of the main communes, with several châteaux turning out impressive wines year after year.
St Julien itself is much more of a village than Pauillac and almost all of the notable properties lie to its south. Its most northerly château is Ch. Léoville Las Cases (whose vineyards actually adjoin those of Latour in Pauillac) but, further south, suitable vineyard land gives way to arable farming and livestock until the Margaux appellation is reached.
The soil is gravelly and finer than that of Pauillac, and without the iron content which gives Pauillac its stature. The homogeneous soils in the vineyards (which extend over a relatively small area of just over 700 hectares) give the commune a unified character.
The wines can be assessed as much by texture as flavour, and there is a sleek, wholesome character to the best. Elegance, harmony and perfect balance and weight, with hints of cassis and cedar, are what epitomise classic St Julien wines. At their very best they combine Margaux’s elegance and refinement with Pauillac’s power and substance.
Ch. Léoville Las Cases produces arguably the most sought-after St Julien, and in any reassessment of the 1855 Classification it would almost certainly warrant being elevated to First Growth status.
Cabernet Sauvignon Blend
Cabernet Sauvignon lends itself particularly well in blends with Merlot. This is actually the archetypal Bordeaux blend, though in different proportions in the sub-regions and sometimes topped up with Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.
In the Médoc and Graves the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend can range from 95% (Mouton-Rothschild) to as low as 40%. It is particularly suited to the dry, warm, free- draining, gravel-rich soils and is responsible for the redolent cassis characteristics as well as the depth of colour, tannic structure and pronounced acidity of Médoc wines. However 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wines can be slightly hollow-tasting in the middle palate and Merlot with its generous, fleshy fruit flavours acts as a perfect foil by filling in this cavity.
In St-Emilion and Pomerol, the blends are Merlot dominated as Cabernet Sauvignon can struggle to ripen there - when it is included, it adds structure and body to the wine. Sassicaia is the most famous Bordeaux blend in Italy and has spawned many imitations, whereby the blend is now firmly established in the New World and particularly in California and Australia.