2022 Langhe Nebbiolo, Angelo, Mauro Veglio, Piedmont, Italy
Critics reviews
Utterly delicious, the 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo hits all the right buttons, starting with its alluring fragrance of blue flower, cedar and woodland berry. Showing the charm of a young, beautifully crafted Nebbiolo meant to be enjoyed in its youth and a few years beyond, it doles out ripe raspberry, wild strawberry and crushed mint before closing on a note of star anise. Lithe tannins and fresh acidity provide seamless support.
Drink through 2027
Kerin O'Keefe, KerinOKeefe.com (March 2024)
About this WINE
Mauro Veglio
Mauro Veglio is situated in the hamlet of Cascina Nuova, near the road that winds down from La Morra. It was founded in the 1960s, when Angelo Veglio bought his first vines in Gattera. In ’79, the family moved to Cascina Nuova, which came with five hectares of vines including holdings in the crus Arborina and Rocche dell’Annunziata. In ’86, Angelo’s son Mauro took over. His marriage in ’87 added holdings in Castelletto, Monforte, to the estate. In 2017, a family alliance with Mauro’s nephew Alessandro – already running his own winery – brought a further five hectares in Gattera and Paiagallo. Today, the estate spans nearly 30 hectares. Leading modernist Elio Altare’s winery is across the yard; he was a strong influence in Mauro’s early days. But under Alessandro’s vision, there is greater flexibility: less accent on extraction and more ageing in larger barrels, although barriques are still used judiciously.
This is Alessandro’s first vintage for his Serralunga project, which enhances both his Classico blend and introduces his Commune di Serralunga. Now, he has Barolo offerings from four of the region’s communes. He has also acquired three hectares of the white Timorasso grape in Tortona, as well as a little more land in Paiagallo from 2023, making his ambition evident. The clear yet defined tannic structure of the 2019 vintage has encouraged him to further reduce the percentage of new oak in the crus where it is used, and botte are again more to the fore. It was also interesting to note that the wines aged in barriques appeared more open, compared to addresses where the wines had been slower to evolve in botte..
Langhe
Langhe is an all-encompassing zone lying due south of Alba and the River Tanaro in the province of Cuneo. Barolo and Barbaresco both lie within its boundaries.
Langhe is also the name of a regional DOC zone, which is used to classify wines made outside of the traditional Piemontese varietal scheme (Nebbiollo, Barbera, Cortese etc). Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc wines from the region are, for example, classified as Langhe DOC.
Langhe Nebbiolo
Effectively the ‘second wine’ of Piedmont’s great Barolo and Barbarescos, the Langhe Nebbiolo DOC is the only way Langhe producers can declassify their Barolo or Barbaresco fruit or wines to make an early-drinking style.
Langhe Nebbiolo can be released onto the market as soon as practicably possible either as a fresh, fruity wine made solely in stainless-steel, or later on having been aged in oak. The Langhe Nebbiolo DOC was created in 1994 along with a plethora of other Langhe DOC wines (so diluting their significance).
Unlike Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo can be cut with 15 percent other red indigenous varieties, such as Barbera or Dolcetto. Leading, quality producers of Barolo and Barbaresco are more inclined to use 100 percent Nebbiolo, recognising its role as a stepping stone, using the fruit from vines that are either too young or poorly situated.
Larger producers tend to use the Langhe Nebbiolo DOC as a valve, declassifying wines destined for Barolo or Barbaresco when the market is difficult. Confusingly Langhe Nebbiolo can also be the declassified wine of Nebbiolo d’Alba.
Recommended producers: Giovanni Rosso di Davide Rosso , Mario Fontana , Ferdinando Principiano
Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo is the grape behind the Barolo and Barbaresco wines and is hardly ever seen outside the confines of Piedmont. It takes its name from "nebbia" which is Italian for fog, a frequent phenomenon in the region.
A notoriously pernickety grape, it requires sheltered south-facing sites and performs best on the well-drained calcareous marls to the north and south of Alba in the DOCG zones of Barbaresco and Barolo.
Langhe Nebbiolo is effectively the ‘second wine’ of Piedmont’s great Barolo & Barbarescos. This DOC is the only way Langhe producers can declassify their Barolo or Barbaresco fruit or wines to make an early-drinking style. Unlike Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo can be cut with 15% other red indigenous varieties, such as Barbera or Dolcetto.
Nebbiolo flowers early and ripens late, so a long hang time, producing high levels of sugar, acidity and tannins; the challenge being to harvest the fruit with these three elements ripe and in balance. The best Barolos and Barbarescos are perfumed with aromas of tar, rose, mint, chocolate, liquorice and truffles. They age brilliantly and the very best need ten years to show at their best.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
Veglio’s Langhe Nebbiolo is named in honour of Alessandro’s grandfather, the founder of the domaine. Half the fruit is sourced from rented vines in Roero, while the rest comes from young vines and north-facing plots across the estate. The rotofermenter is no longer used (hitherto its last foothold in the cellar) and the wine had a short extraction of nine days. This is very accented on red fruit this year, with lots of strawberry notes. It’s utterly delicious in a smooth, modern style, combed by silky tannins.
Drink 2025 – 2031
Mark Pardoe, Wine Director, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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