2023 Chapelle d'Ausone, St Emilion, Bordeaux
Critics reviews
Ruby, plum, grilled almond, fennel, love the depth of this wine, sappy and irresistable. 100% new oak. Philippe Baillarguet cellar master, Vauthier family owners, organic certified in the vineyard.
Drink 2030 - 2044
Jane Anson, JaneAnson.com (April 2024)
The 2023 Chapelle d'Ausone has a well-defined bouquet with dark berry fruit, bell pepper and light gravel scents, nicely focused with a subtle marine influence. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, though it is not as fleshy as previous vintages with quite a strict and linear finish. I suspect it will fill out during barrel-maturation.
Drink 2027 - 2040
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (April 2024)
The 2023 Chapelle d’Ausone is fabulous, as it often is. Succulent, ripe tannins give the 2023 tons of pure charm. Dark red/purplish fruit, lavender, spice, menthol, licorice and mocha all run through this sumptuous yet structured Saint-Émilion. This will be stellar in another few years time.
Drink 2030 - 2048
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (April 2024)
A blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2023 Chapelle d’Ausone is a combination of two plots, plus some press wine. It has a deep garnet-purple color and after a little shaking the nose erupts with notes of wild strawberries, black raspberries, and wood smoke, followed by nuances of garrigue and fallen leaves, with a hint of iron ore. Medium-bodied, the palate vibrates with electric black and red berry layers, framed by fine-grained tannins and great tension, finishing long and shimmery. Impressive!
Drink 2028 - 2042
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, The Wine Independent (May 2024)
60% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Same blend as 2022 and 2020. Cask sample.
Dense and floral with a hint of minty freshness. Smooth attack then plenty of line and length, the fruit enrobing the tannins. Freshness through and through.
Drink 2030 - 2042
James Lawther MW, JancisRobinson.com (April 2024)
A fresh, delicate bouquet of cassis, violet, iris, raspberries and mulberries introduces the 2023 Chapelle d'Ausone, a medium to full-bodied, concentrated and textured wine with a fleshy core of fruit structured around chalky tannins and a long, precise finish.
Drink 2025 - 2040
Yohan Castaing, Wine Advocate (April 2024)
Wow. This is really alluring, with multi-dimensional texture and length. Crisp and al-dente. It's medium- to full-bodied with ultra-fine tannins and crunchy, pure fruit. Salt comes through. 60% cabernet franc, 35% merlot and 5% cabernet sauvignon.
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (April 2024)
About this WINE
Château Ausone
Château Ausone is a wine estate in St Emilion on the Right Bank of Bordeaux. It takes its name from the poet Ausonius, who is thought to have owned a villa where the estate stands today – just outside the medieval village of St Emilion. Ausone’s vineyards sit atop St Emilion’s limestone plateau and extend in terraces down the côtes. There are just over six hectares of vines planted today, mostly Cabernet Franc along with Merlot. The team practice organic and biodynamic viticulture though without certification.
The estate belongs to the Vauthier family, led by Alain Vauthier and his children, Pauline and Edouard. In 1955, Ausone was ranked at the very top of the St Emilion classification – as Premier Grand Cru Classé A – alongside Château Cheval Blanc. In 2021, both Ausone and Cheval Blanc announced that they were voluntarily withdrawing from the classification.
Ausone is known for its structured, long-lived wines. A second wine, Chapelle d’Ausone, was introduced in the 1990s. The Vauthier family also own a number of other properties nearby in St Emilion, including Château Moulin Saint-Georges, Château La Clotte and Château de Fonbel.
St Émilion
St Émilion is one of Bordeaux's largest producing appellations, producing more wine than Listrac, Moulis, St Estèphe, Pauillac, St Julien and Margaux put together. St Emilion has been producing wine for longer than the Médoc but its lack of accessibility to Bordeaux's port and market-restricted exports to mainland Europe meant the region initially did not enjoy the commercial success that funded the great châteaux of the Left Bank.
St Émilion itself is the prettiest of Bordeaux's wine towns, perched on top of the steep limestone slopes upon which many of the region's finest vineyards are situated. However, more than half of the appellation's vineyards lie on the plain between the town and the Dordogne River on sandy, alluvial soils with a sprinkling of gravel.
Further diversity is added by a small, complex gravel bed to the north-east of the region on the border with Pomerol. Atypically for St Émilion, this allows Cabernet Franc and, to a lesser extent, Cabernet Sauvignon to prosper and defines the personality of the great wines such as Ch. Cheval Blanc.
In the early 1990s there was an explosion of experimentation and evolution, leading to the rise of the garagistes, producers of deeply-concentrated wines made in very small quantities and offered at high prices. The appellation is also surrounded by four satellite appellations, Montagne, Lussac, Puisseguin and St. Georges, which enjoy a family similarity but not the complexity of the best wines.
St Émilion was first officially classified in 1954, and is the most meritocratic classification system in Bordeaux, as it is regularly amended. The most recent revision of the classification was in 2012
Cabernet Sauvignon blend
Cabernet Sauvignon lends itself particularly well in blends with Merlot. This is actually the archetypal Bordeaux blend, though in different proportions in the sub-regions and sometimes topped up with Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.
In the Médoc and Graves the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend can range from 95% (Mouton-Rothschild) to as low as 40%. It is particularly suited to the dry, warm, free- draining, gravel-rich soils and is responsible for the redolent cassis characteristics as well as the depth of colour, tannic structure and pronounced acidity of Médoc wines. However 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wines can be slightly hollow-tasting in the middle palate and Merlot with its generous, fleshy fruit flavours acts as a perfect foil by filling in this cavity.
In St-Emilion and Pomerol, the blends are Merlot dominated as Cabernet Sauvignon can struggle to ripen there - when it is included, it adds structure and body to the wine. Sassicaia is the most famous Bordeaux blend in Italy and has spawned many imitations, whereby the blend is now firmly established in the New World and particularly in California and Australia.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
50% Merlot; 40% Cabernet Franc; 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
This wine will be matured entirely in new wood for 20 months, which is quite a statement of intent for a second wine. At this stage, it is quite welcoming, with a floral bouquet of iris and lavender, with red-fruit notes of cranberry underneath. The palate too is initially open and juicy, before the tannins kick in and the more spartan core is reasserted. There are lots of very fine components here, and there will be much to admire after the due amount of patience.
Our score: 16.5/20
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