2023 Château Capbern, St Estèphe, Bordeaux

2023 Château Capbern, St Estèphe, Bordeaux

Product: 20238107941
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2023 Château Capbern, St Estèphe, Bordeaux

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Description

Blend: 69% Cabernet Sauvignon; 29% Merlot; 1% Cabernet Franc; 1% Petit Verdot.

As with its sibling property, Ch. Calon Ségur, the Cabernet Sauvignon was especially successful here. There is a greater proportion included in the blend than usual. This makes the wine very expressive aromatically, with primary notes of blackcurrant, coffee and graphite. The alcohol is relatively high for the vintage (14.6%) which delivers some breadth, but the persuasive notes of the bouquet are not as clear cut on the palate. Nevertheless, this is a direct and confident wine with appealing juiciness.

Our score: 16/20

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Critics reviews

Neal Martin, Vinous89-91/100

The 2023 Capbern was picked from September 6 to 20 at 45hL/ha, matured in 60% new oak. Alcohol is stated at 14.6%. It has a ripe, plush bouquet with brambly red fruit, raspberry confit and just a hint of orange rind coming through with aeration. The palate is well-balanced and cohesive, with slightly powdery tannins, gentle grip and a touch of warmth on the spice box-tinged finish. The acidity (pH is 3.7) keeps this on an even keel, but I would be inclined to drink it after two or three years.

Drink 2027 - 2040

Neal Martin, Vinous.com (April 2024)

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Antonio Galloni, Vinous90-92/100

The 2023 Capbern is a plush, sensual wine. Juicy dark plum, spice, mocha, gravel and incense are all amplified in this racy, wonderfully inviting Saint-Estèphe. Soft, supple tannins wrap it all together in style. Readers looking for an affordable wine to drink over the next 10-12 years will adore this. Superb.

Drink 2025 - 2038

Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (April 2024)

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Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW88-90/100

A blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2023 Capbern has a deep garnet-purple color. It is a little grumpy to start, offering notes of black pepper and sassafras before opening out to notions of plum preserves and stewed strawberries, with a waft of tree bark. The medium-bodied palate is refreshing and light on its feet, with lightly chewy tannins and a peppery finish.

Drink 2027 - 2037

Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, The Wine Independent (May 2024)

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Jancis Robinson MW16/20

69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc. 45 hl/ha. Cask sample.

Big, powerful wine with a firm tannic frame. Fruit ripe but with a hedgerow nuance. Smooth attack but slightly chewy finish.

Drink 2030 - 2038

James Lawther MW, JancisRobinson.com (April 2024)

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Wine Advocate91-93/100

A serious, brooding wine, the 2023 Capbern offers up aromas of cassis and dark berries mingled with licorice and spices. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, with good depth and concentration, it's built around lively acids and powdery tannins. It's a blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon (an unusually high proportion for Capbern) and 29% Merlot with the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

William Kelley, Wine Advocate (April 2024)

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James Suckling93-94/100

There is clarity and freshness to this, with crunchy dark fruit, cedar and blackberry. It’s medium-bodied, racy and fine. Lead pencil at the end. More precise than 2022. 69% cabernet sauvignon, 29% merlot, 1% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot.

James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (April 2024)

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Decanter91/100

Highly perfumed and fragrant nose, full of purple flowers and dark fruits. Bright and super fresh, almost too much, but then settles quickly into salty stone edged tannins that give a metallic tang to the palate. A little lean and straight, not much density but there’s concentration and a sense of quiet power from start to finish. Not so charming but precise and focussed. Nice juiciness too, very St-Estèphe, with a real clean grip to the finish. Will be nice to see after ageing. 12% press wine. 3.7pH. 45hl/ha yield. Ageing 18 months, 60% new French oak. Highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend at 69% with 1% Cabernet Franc completing the blend.

Drink 2029 - 2040

Georgina Hindle, Decanter (April 2024)

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Jeb Dunnuck91-94/100

Coming from the team of Calon Ségur, the 2023 Château Capbern is a terrific Saint-Estèphe, and it goes a long way toward showing the strength of the Médoc in the vintage. Cassis, plums, smoked tobacco, and graphite all define the aromatics, and it's medium to full-bodied, with a round, layered mouthfeel and beautiful tannins. I love the overall purity of fruit, and it's a ripe, sexy, yet flawlessly balanced beauty that should drink nicely right out of the gate yet also age gracefully.

Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com (May 2024)

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About this WINE

Chateau Capbern

Chateau Capbern

Chateau Capbern Gasqueton in Bordeaux has been in the ownership of the Gasqueton family, owners of the 3rd classed Growth Ch Calon Ségur, for 10 generations.  It is a Cru Bourgeois, located close to the best part of St Estephe, and has 41 hectares under vine.

Unsurprisingly in view of the excellence of Calon Ségur at present this is a well-run estate, producing wines of charm and structure capable of lasting comfortably 10-20 years in good vintages. The fruit is all hand-harvested and oak is used judiciously, with only one-third of the barrels new each year. 10,000 cases are produced and in the context of the current pricing of top Bordeaux we regard this as offering excellent value for money.

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Saint-Estèphe

Saint-Estèphe

Saint-Estèphe is the northernmost of the most important communes of the Médoc and borders Pauillac on its southernmost border, with only a gully and stream separates it from Ch. Lafite. To the north lies the Bas-Médoc.

Saint-Estèphe is defined by the depth of its gravel, which is ubiquitous but of varying depths and occasionally very shallow, when clay predominates. This keeps the soil cooler and wetter than its counterparts so that the wines can appear fresh in lighter vintages, but superbly successful in hot, dry years. 

The best châteaux in the south of the commune have the deepest soil and the thickest gravel. Cos d'Estournel has an exceptional terroir with its vineyards being located on a south-facing ridge of gravel with excellent drainage. 

Saint-Estèphe is the least gravelly of main Médoc communes and in the north of the commune the vineyards are heavier and more clay-based leading to a rustic style of wine being produced.

The wines can appear austere in youth with a discernable ferric note at some châteaux, but the best typically display good depth of colour, pronounced acidity an tannins in youth and are exceptionally long-lived. At their best, they are the equal of almost any Bordeaux. The well-regarded St Estèphe co-operative controls the production of about half the appellation.

Recommended Châteaux
Cos (Ch. Cos d'Estournel), Ch. Montrose, Ch. Calon-Ségur, Ch. Lafon-Rochet, Ch. Les Ormes de Pez, Ch. Beau-Site, Ch. Cos Labory, Ch. Phélan-Ségur

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Cabernet Sauvignon blend

Cabernet Sauvignon blend

Cabernet Sauvignon lends itself particularly well in blends with Merlot. This is actually the archetypal Bordeaux blend, though in different proportions in the sub-regions and sometimes topped up with Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.

In the Médoc and Graves the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend can range from 95% (Mouton-Rothschild) to as low as 40%. It is particularly suited to the dry, warm, free- draining, gravel-rich soils and is responsible for the redolent cassis characteristics as well as the depth of colour, tannic structure and pronounced acidity of Médoc wines. However 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wines can be slightly hollow-tasting in the middle palate and Merlot with its generous, fleshy fruit flavours acts as a perfect foil by filling in this cavity.

In St-Emilion and Pomerol, the blends are Merlot dominated as Cabernet Sauvignon can struggle to ripen there - when it is included, it adds structure and body to the wine. Sassicaia is the most famous Bordeaux blend in Italy and has spawned many imitations, whereby the blend is now firmly established in the New World and particularly in California and  Australia.

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When is a wine ready to drink?

We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.

Not ready

These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.

Ready - youthful

These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.

Ready - at best

These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.

Ready - mature

These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.