2023 Château Pavie Macquin, St Emilion, Bordeaux
Critics reviews
Touch of gunsmoke reduction softens to show gentle grilled oak notes, skilful construction, cocoa bean, espresso, blueberry, pomegranate, oyster shell salinity. This has grip and intensity, tension, energy, a brooding quality that switches into a vertical lift through the palate. Brilliant construction, and a joyful reflection of the power of terroir. 48hl/ha. Thienpont-Derenoncourt team, celebrating 30 years of collaboration, Corre-Macquin family, Nicolas Thienpont director director. Tasted twice.
Drink 2030 - 2048
Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux (April 2024)
The 2023 Pavie Macquin was picked from September 18, finishing with the Cabernet Sauvignon on October 3, cropped at 48hl/ha. The nose offers a mélange of red and black fruit with light wilted rose petal and iris scents. The Cabernet Franc (17% of the blend) imparts loamy aromas. The palate is very svelte and creamy on the entry, but there is real depth and freshness here. Harmonious and poised, it fans out beautifully on the finish. This is more elegant and complex than the 2022, and my score reflects this. Superb.
Drink 2028 - 2050
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (April 2024)
The 2023 Pavie Macquin is one of the stars of the vintage. An exceptional, vibrant wine, Pavie Macquin dazzles from start to finish. Seamless tannins wrap around a core of inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, mint, spice and blood orange, all framed by bright, salivating acids. The transition toward higher-density vineyards and greater freshness is paying huge dividends. This is a stellar effort from the château and long-time consultant Stephane Derenoncourt, who has kept Pavie Macquin as one of just a handful of estates he personally follows these days. In a word: Brilliant! Tasted two times.
Drink 2030 - 2053
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (April 2024)
The 2023 Pavie Macquin is deep garnet-purple in color. Wow! It prances out with a showy perfume of lilacs, iris bulb, star anise, sandalwood, and Sichuan pepper leading to a core of redcurrant jelly, wild blueberries, and black raspberries plus earthy suggestions of moss-covered tree bark and fallen leaves. The medium to full-bodied palate shimmers with energetic red and black berry layers, framed by firm fine-grained tannins and magic tension, finishing very long with lots of chalky and red berry sparks. This is electric. The pH this year is 3.40.
Drink 2029 - 2050
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, The Wine Independent (May 2024)
82% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cask sample.
Firm and spicy on the nose. Juicy palate with well-integrated tannins. Oak still present. Less power than top years but balanced and harmonious.
Drink 2030 - 2045
James Lawther MW, JancisRobinson.com (April 2024)
Aromas of sweet raspberries, cherries and plums mingle with notions of licorice and creamy new oak, introducing the 2023 Pavie Macquin, a medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated wine with a deep core of fruit, tangy acids and powdery tannins. As higher density plantings on the plateau with superior vine genetics start to enter into production, and as the south of the property is restructured, this estate's tannins are becoming more refined, even if the very low pH of 3.35 still tends to foreground the wine's structure.
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (April 2024)
This is a twitchy, lively red with brambleberry, black olive and a real sense of limestone. The tannins are very well integrated. Lots of energy. Medium body. Extremely long. Very cool, fine wine from this estate in this year. 3.35 pH. 14.2% alcohol. 82% merlot, 17% cabernet franc and 1% cabernet sauvignon. Best ever?
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (April 2024)
Super fragranced on the nose, really floral and evocative with heady aromas - expressive, ripe and sweet fruit elements too. Super high acidity on the palate, but actually this really works with a soft chalky, powdery bite to the tannins. It’s touching on lean, more straight and less concentrated than Larcis Ducasse at this point. The focus here is the fun, lifted side. So precise, finessed, and detailed with layers of fine tannins, bright fruit and tons of energy yet still with concentration and firm red summer berry fruit. I love it.
Drink 2029 - 2048
Georgina Hindle, Decanter (April 2024)
An open, expressive vintage for this cuvée, the 2023 Château Pavie Macquin still has that classic darker cherry and cassis-driven perfume as well as beautiful minerality, medium to full body, a ripe, layered, yet focused mouthfeel, and ripe yet integrated tannins. It has the elegant style of the vintage while still being a classic Pavie Macquin. It's going to need 7-8 years of bottle age, but it's clearly an impressive, beautiful wine in the making. Tasted multiple times.
Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com (May 2024)
About this WINE
Chateau Pavie Macquin
Château Pavie Macquin, a St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé (B), is a property that has hit form in the last 10 years and is now producing first-class wines. It is located east of the village of St Emilion and its 15 hectares of vineyards are located on the Côte Pavie, adjacent to the vineyards of Pavie, Pavie-Decesse and Troplong-Mondot. Since 1990 Nicholas Thienpoint Château has been in charge of the property. A pioneer of the Right Bank, Nicolas Thienpoint first pushed the boundaries with organic then biodynamic winemaking in developing the property’s style, helped by his soon-to-be-famous maître de chai, Stéphane Derenoncourt, who joined the team in 1990 and still consults today. Pavie Macquin's wine is a blend of 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.
St Émilion
St Émilion is one of Bordeaux's largest producing appellations, producing more wine than Listrac, Moulis, St Estèphe, Pauillac, St Julien and Margaux put together. St Emilion has been producing wine for longer than the Médoc but its lack of accessibility to Bordeaux's port and market-restricted exports to mainland Europe meant the region initially did not enjoy the commercial success that funded the great châteaux of the Left Bank.
St Émilion itself is the prettiest of Bordeaux's wine towns, perched on top of the steep limestone slopes upon which many of the region's finest vineyards are situated. However, more than half of the appellation's vineyards lie on the plain between the town and the Dordogne River on sandy, alluvial soils with a sprinkling of gravel.
Further diversity is added by a small, complex gravel bed to the north-east of the region on the border with Pomerol. Atypically for St Émilion, this allows Cabernet Franc and, to a lesser extent, Cabernet Sauvignon to prosper and defines the personality of the great wines such as Ch. Cheval Blanc.
In the early 1990s there was an explosion of experimentation and evolution, leading to the rise of the garagistes, producers of deeply-concentrated wines made in very small quantities and offered at high prices. The appellation is also surrounded by four satellite appellations, Montagne, Lussac, Puisseguin and St. Georges, which enjoy a family similarity but not the complexity of the best wines.
St Émilion was first officially classified in 1954, and is the most meritocratic classification system in Bordeaux, as it is regularly amended. The most recent revision of the classification was in 2012
Merlot
The most widely planted grape in Bordeaux and a grape that has been on a relentless expansion drive throughout the world in the last decade. Merlot is adaptable to most soils and is relatively simple to cultivate. It is a vigorous naturally high yielding grape that requires savage pruning - over-cropped Merlot-based wines are dilute and bland. It is also vital to pick at optimum ripeness as Merlot can quickly lose its varietal characteristics if harvested overripe.
In St.Emilion and Pomerol it withstands the moist clay rich soils far better than Cabernet grapes, and at it best produces opulently rich, plummy clarets with succulent fruitcake-like nuances. Le Pin, Pétrus and Clinet are examples of hedonistically rich Merlot wines at their very best. It also plays a key supporting role in filling out the middle palate of the Cabernet-dominated wines of the Médoc and Graves.
Merlot is now grown in virtually all wine growing countries and is particularly successful in California, Chile and Northern Italy.
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Description
Blend: 82% Merlot; 17% Cabernet Franc; 1% Cabernet Sauvignon.
It is now 30 years since Director Nicolas Thienpont and consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt first worked together at Pavie Macquin for the Corre Macquin family – putting the property firmly on the map. It’s a very good effort this year, as always, with the usual notes of grilled nuts with a salty tang to the fore. The fruit is dense, dark and very pure. The long harvest season allowed picking into October in this slightly cooler corner of St Emilion. This is an admirable wine and full-bodied in the context of the appellation.
Drink 2030 - 2048
Our score: 17/20
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