2023 Bouzeron, Maison Gautheron d'Anost, Burgundy
About this WINE
Maison Gautheron d'Anost
Maison Gautheron d’Anost is a young and promising winery located in Meursault, Burgundy. Founded by Bastien Gautheron, the estate follows a non-interventionist approach to winemaking, emphasising the connection between terroir and vineyard.
The vineyards are primarily organic-certified, with holdings in Savigny and Hautes-Côtes de Beaune. Bastien also collaborates with other organic winegrowers to source grapes. His winemaking philosophy involves simple vinifications, short macerations, and aging in barrels.
Notable wines from Maison Gautheron d’Anost include the Bouzeron ‘Les Louères’ (Aligoté), offering velvety fruit with lemon and greengage aromas; the Saint Romain ‘Les Perriéres’ (Chardonnay), a zippy and mineral wine; and the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (Chardonnay), a delightful balance of citrus fruit and weight.
Cote Chalonnaise
South of the main Côte d'Or, the vineyards are interspersed with other forms of agriculture, with just the more favoured slopes being dedicated to vineyards. Few wines from the Côte Chalonnaise are designed for long ageing, but there are many attractive red and white wines at affordable prices, and one unique appellation, Bouzeron, which is made using the Aligoté grape alone.
- 53 hectares of AC Bouzeron (for Aligoté)
- 330 hectares of AC Rully (65 percent white). Finest vineyards include Clos St Jacques, Gresigny, La Pucelle, Rabourcé.
- 257 hectares of AC Givry (85 percent red). Premier Crus include Clos Salomon, Clos Jus.
- 645 hectares of AC Mercurey (85 percent red). Best Premier Crus include Clos du Roy, Clos l'Eveque, Les Naugues.
- 291 hectares of AC Montagny (all white). Premier Crus include Les Coères, Les Jardins.
- Recommended Producers: de Vilaine (Bouzeron), Jacqueson, Devevey (Rully), Lumpp, Ragot (Givry), Juillot, Lorenzon, Raquillet (Mercurey), Aladame (Montagny).
Aligoté
A grape that was first recorded in Burgundy in the 18th century and is still planted almost exclusively there, though there are limited plantings in Bulgaria, Moldavia and even California. It is a moderate-yielding grape that tends to perform best on south-east facing slopes and in warm, dry years.
For your Burgundian vigneron, Aligoté is not nearly as profitable to grow as Chardonnay - consequently it tends to be relegated to lower quality vineyards. In the wrong hands and in the wrong sites it can produce thin, raspingly acidic wines that are remarkably undistinguished. However the best growers produce balanced examples with nutty and citrus hints which are most appealing to drink. The best Aligoté wines traditionally come from Bouzeron in the Côte Chalonnaise. Along with blackcurrant liqueur, it is the key ingredient of Kir.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
This is a very expressive Aligoté compared to the norm, and compared to Bastien’s new label, Le Bien Urbain. It comes from two vineyards, Rabeutelot and Bouchines, with vines aged 50 years or more on the latter. The nose is open with notes of citrus peel, apricot, lemon and grape. The palate has a lovely creamy texture alongside notes of citrus, orange peel and honeysuckle. This is an elegant, balanced and giving Aligoté.
Yoan Bernard, Fine Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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