2023 Estate Argyros, Assyrtiko, Santorini, Greece
About this WINE
Estate Argyros
Established in 1903 by Georgios Argyros, Estate Argyros is a family-run winery in Episkopi Gonia on the Greek island of Santorini. The current proprietor, Matthaios (Matthew) Argyros, represents the fourth generation of the family and has been at the helm since 2004.
Over the years, the estate has expanded its vineyard holdings to over 120 hectares, making it the largest private vineyard owner in Santorini. These vineyards are home to vines averaging over 70 years of age, with some parcels exceeding two centuries. The low-yielding vines, cultivated without irrigation and farmed organically, seldom yield more than 25 hectolitres per hectare, even in abundant vintages.
The estate produces wines from indigenous Santorinian grape varieties, including Assyrtiko, Athiri, Aidani, and the rare red Mavrotragano. Additionally, they produce Vinsanto, a traditional sweet wine aged for extended periods—sometimes decades. All vineyard work is performed manually, except for ploughing, which is carried out by mules. The traditional basket-shaped vine training system, known as "koulouri," protects the grapes from strong winds and intense sunlight.
Santorini
The volcanic island of Santorini is one of the southernmost in the Cyclades archipelago and among the most famous in Greece. Growing vines has been a long-standing activity and it has successfully survived the competition for hotel-land as well as the extreme viticultural conditions (volcanic eruptions, severe summer drought, hot weather, dry, ferocious winds)
In this unforgiving viticultural environment, vines are pushed to their limits, struggling to produce even 2 tonnes per hectare. This also results to an extraordinary definition of flavours in the fruit.
Asyrtiko, the standout Greek white grape, planted throughout Greece including Macedonia and Attica, is at home here with a magnificent combination of body, steely minerality and high acidity. It works extremely well in its own, but it also lends itself to blends with the more mellow and fruity Athiri and Aidani grapes.
Assirtiko wines are bone-dry, showing citrus aromas intermixed with an earthy, mineral aftertaste that reflects the volcanic soil of Santorini.
Vinsanto or Vissanto
Vissanto, produced since Byzantine times, is a local sweet wine speciality, made from sun-dried Assyrtiko, Aidani and Athiri grapes. Mature examples are half-way between Oloroso and Tawny Port. Less sweet, more youthful versions from a combination of raisined and and un-raisined grapes, or from grapes that have undergone less sun drying, show peach flavors and a lingering aftertaste of wildflower honey, supported by mouthwatering acidity.
Although the island didn't have a reputation for red wine, the red cultivars of Mandilaria (20% of vineyard area) and the oak-aged Mavrotragano (of the Mataro-Mourvedre lineage) have now gained recognition in the Greek wine-making scene.
A rare examples of sweet wine (Madeira-style) from sun-dried grapes is also produced by the local Mavrathiro.
Recommended Producers
Santorini is home to several pioneering boutique wineries. Certain of these have propelled the local industry to achieving modernization, innovation and international recognition; Sigalas, Hatzidakis, Argiros, Antoniou and Heliopoulos are some of the premium quality producers.
Assyrtiko
Assyrtiko (aka Assirtiko) [pronounce: A seer' tee ko] is one of Greece's signature white wine grape varieties, used for both dry and sweet wine. It reaches its apogee in the island of Santorini (where it was first planted – currently 70% of the island’s vineyard area). It yields a bone-dry, steely wine that has deliciously concentrated citrus aromas mixed with an earthy, mineral aftertaste evocative of the volcanic soil of Santorini.
Uniquely, the vines are cultivated in low basket shaped crowns, pinned to the ground, for protection from the often fierce winds dominating the climate in Santorini. Coming off the sea, the nocturnal fog brings much needed water to the vines during the dry, hot summer season and this, coupled with the cooling northerly winds provide the right growing conditions for the grape to thrive.
Assyrtiko is highly resistant to most grape diseases and this partly explains why it been widely re-planted throughout appellations in Greece, such as in Paros, Naxos, Crete, and in smaller quantities in Attica, Drama, Epanomi, Halkidiki and Hromitsa, Drama.
Owing to its pronounced mineral profile, Assyrtiko stands up well for blending with grapes such as Sauvignon blanc, Sémillon and the indigenous Greek white grape Malagousia.
These are wines to be enjoyed young or aged; the ideal complement to delicate dishes, fish, seafood and, surprisingly, even grilled meat dishes.
More famously, Assyrtiko is paired with the aromatic Aidani and Athiri white grapes for the production of a distinctive, naturally sweet wine called Vinsanto (derivative of the name Santorini), known since the Byzantine times.
Vinsanto can be naturally sweet or fortified and must be barrel-aged for a minimum of 2 years. The opulently sweet Vinsantos display a deep amber colour, a thrilling nose of crème brûlée’, chocolate and dried apricots and a palate of dates and dried figs.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
100% Assyrtiko. From ungrafted vines that are 100–120 years old.
This is the most important bottling of the estate. Meticulously selected parcels, with ages exceeding a century, from top-quality areas of the island, mainly Messaria, Karterados, Pyrgos, Megalochori, and Akrotiri. Fermented in stainless steel at cool temperatures and aged for two months in stainless steel tanks on fine lees. A copybook Santorini, at least under the Argyros lenses, showing purity and race without excesses. Capable of developing for at least a decade.
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