White, Ready, but will keep

2009 Meursault, Perrieres 1er Cru, Domaine Pierre Matrot

2009 Meursault, Perrieres 1er Cru, Domaine Pierre Matrot

White | Ready, but will keep | Domaine Thierry & Pascale Matrot | Code:  20983 | 2009 | France > Burgundy > Cote de Beaune > Meursault | Chardonnay | Medium-Full Bodied, Dry | 13.0 % alcohol

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The Producer

Domaine Thierry & Pascale Matrot

Domaine Thierry & Pascale Matrot

Domaine Thierry & Pascale, erstwhile known as Domaine Pierre Matrot, was established in 1914 by Joseph Matrot in the appellation of Meursault . His son Pierre took the reins in 1937 and expanded the vineyards further. Thierry, Pierre's son, took over the estate in 1976.

Until very recently one might find the names of Thierry’s father, Pierre, or grandfather, Joseph on the label but from 2009 all the wines, including older stocks, leaving the cellars will come under the name of Thierry and his wife Pascale, who are likely to be joined by two of their three daughters in the business shortly. The Matrots originally began as negociants at Evelle, in the Hautes Côtes, but Joseph moved to Meursault and began domaine bottling immediately after the First World War.

Everything is thought out chez Thierry but he does not necessarily march to the same drumbeat as his neighbours. The vineyards have been farmed organically since 2000 though are not certified as such. The whites are pressed, not left to settle unless there is a doubt about the quality of the lees, then undergo a long slow fermentation in barrels, without any new oak except for a small cuvée of Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru ‘Quintessence’ and the Bourgogne Blanc – 100% new oak in order to season the barrels in preparation for the following year’s Meursault or Meursault 1er Cru! The other lesser whites may also see some new oak for the same reason. The wines are bottled just before the next harvest.

The reds are attractive wines made without stalks, though otherwise the only rule is to avoid excessive crop levels. fermentation and maceration may be anything from 3 to 25 days, depending on the nature of the raw material in a given year and vineyard.

White
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes 0.31 , Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Garennes 0.12, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeaux 1.35, Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 0.53, Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes 0.93, Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru 0.98, Meursault Chevalières 0.65
Meursault 5.38

Red
Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce Sous Le Bois 1.43, Volnay-Santenots 1er Cru 0.87, Meursault Rouge 0.93, Monthélie 0.45, Auxey Duresses 0.57

The Grape

Chardonnay

Chardonnay

Chardonnay is the "Big Daddy" of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world. It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.

Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.

It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.

Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.

The Region

Meursault

Meursault

There are more top producers in Meursault than in any other commune of the Côte d’Or. Certainly it is the most famous and popular of the great white appellations. Its wines are typically rich and savoury with nutty, honeyed hints and buttery, vanilla spice from the oak.

Even though it is considerably larger than its southerly neighbours Chassagne and Puligny, Meursault contains no Grands Crus. Its three best Premiers Crus, however – Les Perrières, Les Genevrières and Les Charmes – produce some of the region’s greatest whites: they are full, round and powerful, and age very well. Les Perrières in particular can produce wines of Grand Cru quality, a fact that is often reflected in its price. Meursault has also been one of the driving forces of biodynamic viticulture in the region, as pioneered by Lafon and Leflaive.

Many of the vineyards below Premier Cru, known as ‘village’ wines, are also well worth looking at. The growers vinify their different vineyard holdings separately, which rarely happens in Puligny or Chassagne. Such wines can be labelled with the ‘lieu-dit’ vineyard alongside (although in smaller type to) the Meursault name.

Premier Cru Meursault should be enjoyed from five to 15 years of age, although top examples can last even longer. Village wines, meanwhile, are normally at their best from three to 10 years.

Very occasionally, red Meursault is produced with some fine, firm results. The best red Pinot Noir terroir, Les Santenots, is afforded the courtesy title of Volnay Santenots, even though it is actually in Meursault.

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