2011 Domaine Gauby, La Roque Blanc, Côtes Catalanes, Roussillon
Critics reviews
David Schildknecht - 30/01/2014
About this WINE
Domaine Gauby
The modern era for this excellent Côtes du Rousillon estate dates from 1985 when the energetic Gérard Gauby took over the family estate. Previously the wines were sold in bulk to the local co-operative, but Gérard took the brave decision to go it alone.
The domaine is situated in the village of Calce, in the Vin-de-Pays appellation of Coteaux des Fenouilledes. As the name of the village suggests, the soils in this area are predominantly chalky and are suitable for both red and white wines.
A number of grape varieties are planted at the domaine, the reds include Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carignan, the whites are made from Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Viognier and, unusually for this area, Chenin Blanc.
The wines are elegant and modern with great balance and concentration.
VDP des Cotes Catalanes
As its name suggests VDP des Côtes Catalanes is one of the most Westerly of the zonal Vin De Pays within the Vin De Pays D'Oc region. Located within the Pyrénees Orientales, this is one of the few designations that has forged a reputation in its own right. The wines tend to be dominated by Grenache and to be rich and ruddy of complexion.
Other Varieties
There are over 200 different grape varieties used in modern wine making (from a total of over 1000). Most lesser known blends and varieties are traditional to specific parts of the world.
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Description
The Gaubys white 2011 La Roque originates with old vines of Muscat Alexandrine and Muscat Petit Grains planted on schist, and was the first wine they picked in this vintage. Following the lead of the 2009 Coume del Lloups, this inaugural vintage from these vines was crushed and fermented as if it were red wine and including the stems all with an orange result and matured in tank and 500 liter barrels. Iris, mint, orange blossom, honeysuckle, pungent orange peel and piquant apricot kernel combine for a heady and penetrating nose, then reprise on a firm but infectiously juicy palate, with apricot skin lending invigorating tartness and black pepper a bit like one can sometimes witnesses from the Traminer family. A positively mouth-shaking finish grabs your attention (if it had been wandering, which I doubt!) and practically compels the next sip. One can only speculate on longevity in the absence of a track record for anything remotely like this (at least, from this soil and clime; though I am reminded a bit of Sepp and Maria Musters Styrian Muskateller). But I am sure that this very distinctive take on Muscat will prove utterly fascinating at table over the next several years.
David Schildknecht - 30/01/2014
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