2010 Poeira, Jorge Moreira, Douro

From the dramatic schistous terraces of the Douro, this is probably the best table wine in Portugal. Jorge Moreira, who is also the head winemaker at Quinta de la Rosa, farms 25 parcels on north-facing sites, a picturesque mosaic of indigenous varieties, principally Touriga Nacional, Tinto Roriz and Touriga Francesca.

With traditional lagare foot-trodden grapes and 16 months in new and one-year-old French oak, the 2010 has plenty of individuality and no dearth of class, with abundant black fruit, herbal and savoury notes in support and, perhaps most importantly, very fine tannins holding the edifice in place.