Red, Ready, but will improve

2007 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Olivier Bernstein

2007 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Olivier Bernstein

Red | Ready, but will improve | Olivier Bernstein | Code:  2287 | 2007 | France > Burgundy > Cote de Nuits > Morey-Saint-Denis | Pinot Noir | Medium-Full Bodied, Dry | 13.0 % alcohol

Prices: 

Please note:

Wines sold "In Bond" (including BBX) or “En Primeur” are not available for immediate delivery and storage charges may apply.

Duty and VAT must be paid separately before delivery can take place.

Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs

£998.00

Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs

£1,220.00
See All Listings

Scores and Reviews

BURGHOUND

90-93/100

JANCIS

18/20

BURGHOUND - In Clos de la Roche the wood is more discreet if not absent and allows the primarily red berry fruit nose to have center stage. The textured, minerally and concentrated flavors are beautifully focused if not as big and broad as those of the Bonnes Mares yet despite the difference in size, this is every bit as powerful and driving. The primary difference between the two wines is one of depth and the Clos de la Roche cannot match the gorgeous complexity and length. Still, this is a lovely effort that should repay up to a decade of cellaring.
(Allen Meadows, burghound.com, Issue 33, Jan 2009)

JANCIS - Clos de la Roche shows a crimson, crystal clear colour and quite a haunting nose. Great sweet palate hit at first. Juicy red cherry fruit. Very charming with quite a bit of grandeur. Lots of very, very fine tannins. Very racy, like taffeta. Strong and cracking texture. Well done and very clean.

Olivier Bernstein is a new name but one that is unlikely to be overlooked for long. This self-styled 'micro négociant' doesn't bother with wines as lowly as those labelled Bourgogne or with a simple village name. He produces only six premiers crus (two of them white) and four grands crus, helped substantially by Richard Seguin of Gevrey-Chambertin, who, as part of the same family as own Domaine Dugat-Py, has access to some superb vineyards, many of them with 70-year-old vines. Born in Touraine into a family of music publishers, Bernstein studied viticulture and oenology in Beaune and claims particular inspiration while working briefly with the late Henri Jayer in 2002. This initially led him to acquire and renovate Mas de la Dévèze in Roussillon, where he is based (to judge from his car licence plate), but he now spends much of his time on the six-hour journey between Tautavel and the modest cellar rented from Seguin in a Gevrey backstreet.
(Jancis Robinson, New brooms in Burgundy, jancisrobinson.com, Jan 09)

The Producer

Olivier Bernstein

Olivier Bernstein

In a very short space of time Olivier Bernstein has established himself as a new star in Burgundy, receiving superb press notices from his very first vintage, 2007 from both Jancis Robinson and Allen Meadows among others.

The range focuses on six grands crus from the Côte de Nuits: a trio from Gevrey-Chambertin, specifically Charmes-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Bèze; along with Clos de Vougeot, Bonnes Mares and Clos de la Roche. These are supported by three 1ers crus, three white wines and a single village cuvee from Gevrey-Chambertin. Naturally, production of each wine is tiny, considering the low yields coming from old vines.

Bernstein comes from a family of music publishers, but left a promising corporate career to study oenology in Beaune. After working harvest at Domaine Rouget, which enabled him to meet the late Henri Jayer, during the 2002 vintage, he moved to Roussillon to found his own Domaine, Mas de la Deveze. He returned in Burgundy in 2007 to establish a négociant business.

Since then, Olivier has managed to get close to his vineyard sources. He now manages the vineyard work for all but one of his sources and – a wonderful opportunity – has managed to buy two of the vineyards he has worked with since the start: Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux and Mazis Chambertin. It is rare for grand cru vineyards to change hands so this is a major coup.

These vineyards follow the common thread of old vines – more than 80 years old in the case of the Mazis – which enables Olivier to work with excellent raw material. During vinification the wines are very lightly handled, with a good proportion of stems included to maintain a lively thread throughout, while the barrels are made to order by master cooper Stéphane Chassin, who comes to taste the new vintage before deciding what type of toasting will suit each individual wine. The 1er and grand cru wines are matured in new wood from the start. This takes place in the new Bernstein headquarters, some marvellous reconditioned old cellars in the heart of Beaune.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook
 

The Grape

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.

The Region

Morey-Saint-Denis

Morey-Saint-Denis

Morey is sometimes ignored between its two famous neighbours, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin, but its wines are of equal class, combining elegance and structure. Morey-St Denis, being that little bit less famous, can often provide excellent value.

The four main Grand Cru vineyards continue in a line from those of Gevrey-Chambertin, with Clos St Denis and Clos de la Roche the most widely available. Clos des Lambrays (almost) and Clos de Tart (entirely) are monopolies of the domains which bear the same names.

Domaine Dujac and Domaine Ponsot also make rare white wines in Morey-St Denis.

  • 64 hectares of village Morey-St Denis
  • 33 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (20 in all). Best vineyards include Les Charmes, Les Millandes, Clos de la Bussière, Les Monts Luisants
  • 40 hectares of Grand Cru vineyard. Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de la Roche, Clos St Denis and a tiny part of Bonnes Mares
  • Recommended Producers: Dujac, Ponsot, Clos de Tart, Domaine des Lambrays

Storage Details
 
Storage in BB&R Warehouses
 

  Wines bought from Berry Bros. & Rudd can be stored
in our temperature controlled warehouses.
We can only accept orders for unmixed cases.
Storage Charges:
£12.00 (inc. VAT)
per case per annum
Customer Reserves For wines purchased In Bond,
Duty & VAT charges become payable upon withdrawing from your reserves.
BBX wines can only be bought In Bond.
More information on wine storage
£10.20 (inc. VAT)
per case per annum
for Cellar Plan Members
Customer Reviews
Questions And Answers