2008 Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, Domaine Robert Groffier Père & Fils, Burgundy
Critics reviews
David Schildknecht - 29/06/2010
About this WINE
Domaine Robert Groffier
This domaine is often thought of as being in Chambolle-Musigny as most of their vineyards are in that commune and none in Morey. Its origins date back to Frederic Groffier in the 19th century, before Jules Groffier (1898-1974), son of Frederic and father of Robert built it up, and Robert started the practice of domaine bottling. It is now run by Robert Groffier’s son Serge and grandson Nicolas. There are no set rules to vinification, with stalks being included to a greater or lesser degree according to the vintage, having previously used all the stems (until 1984) and then none (in the 1990s).
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.
Morey-Saint-Denis
Morey is sometimes ignored between its two famous neighbours, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin, but its wines are of equal class, combining elegance and structure. Morey-St Denis, being that little bit less famous, can often provide excellent value.
The four main Grand Cru vineyards continue in a line from those of Gevrey-Chambertin, with Clos St Denis and Clos de la Roche the most widely available. Clos des Lambrays (almost) and Clos de Tart (entirely) are monopolies of the domains which bear the same names.
Domaine Dujac and Domaine Ponsot also make rare white wines in Morey-St Denis.
- 64 hectares of village Morey-St Denis
- 33 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (20 in all). Best vineyards include Les Charmes, Les Millandes, Clos de la Bussière, Les Monts Luisants
- 40 hectares of Grand Cru vineyard. Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de la Roche, Clos St Denis and a tiny part of Bonnes Mares
- Recommended Producers: Dujac, Ponsot, Clos de Tart, Domaine des Lambrays
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
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Description
The Groffier 2008 Bonnes Mares delivers a savage and site-typical blast of berry concentrate, horehound, smoked meat, juniper, and a whiff of pitch. Sweetly ripe red raspberry and strawberry tinged with citrus oil and herbs on a silken and juicily bright palate convey an almost white wine-like sense of enervation, and only in the gripping, attractively bitter-tart finish does one become aware of this Pinots abundant, fine tannins. This seems to have energy to burn and I wouldnt hesitate to plan on 6-8 years of watchful cellaring.
David Schildknecht - 29/06/2010
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