Critics reviews
Jonathan Ray - Wine Spectator - Feb 2013
About this WINE
Crama Ceptura
Crama Ceptura is a sister company to Purcari of Moldova. The very modern winery (2004) is in the village of Ceptura, the vineyards are on predominantly south-east facing slopes in the foothills of the Carpathian mountains, in the famous Dealu Mare region north of Bucharest. The vineyards grow both indigenous (esp. Feteasca Regala and Feteasca Neagra ) and international varietals, in this, Romania’s warmest viticultural region.
Romania
Romania has had a long history of wine-making, the Dacians pre-dating both Greek and Roman civilisations. Wine-making flourished under the Roman occupation and the early middle ages, but was limited when Wallachia and Moldavia came under the influence of the Ottoman Empire, although Transylvania remained independent. Romania as an integrated and independent country came into being in 1878, and thereafter, particularly in the lead up to the first world war looked to France both culturally and politically, resulting in extensive planting of French varieties after the ravages of phylloxera.
The wine industry suffered from the depression between the wars and was taken into state control with the emergence of the communist regime in the late 1940s. The focus during the communist years was on quantity rather than quality, this only changing gradually after the revolution of 1989 and the liberalisation that allowed EU membership in 2007.
The wine industry in Romania has recently benefitted from overseas investment and technology transfer, but has also looked back to the indigenous grapes that made its reputation in the 19thC and early 20thC. Figures for 2012 rank it 13th in the wine producing countries of the world, making nearly double the volume of New Zealand.
Feteasca Neagra
Feteasca Neagra is an old grape variety that originated in Moldavia, producing wines of an almost Italian character, with red plum fruit, fresh acidity and ripe but firm tannins, and an intriguing spice note on the finish. The name means “Black Maiden”. This wine would suit meat based pasta dishes and charcuterie.
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Description
My role as buyer of wine from some of the less obvious corners of the world have lead me to discover grape varieties that I struggle to pronounce, let alone pronounce upon. This is an example, however, that I am very happy to talk about. Romania has a long history of wine-making, blighted by the politics of the last century, but is now starting to re-establish itself as a player of note. It has all too readily embraced so-called “International” grape varieties (read French), and is only now realising the riches not so much on its doorstep as within the house. The combination of traditional grape variety with modern winemaking skills has yielded a wine in tune with current trends – not too alcoholic, perfect with a wide array of foods, and with a unique identity that makes it stand out from the crowd of me too merlots and clumsy cabernets. The wine has fine tannins, fresh acidity, crunchy red fruit character and a fascinating smoky herbal note on the finish. Why not try something unpronounceable, but of irreproachable quality and value?
Martin Hudson MW
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