2013 Grands Echezeaux, Grand Cru, Domaine François Lamarche, Burgundy
Critics reviews
Neal Martin - 02/01/2015
About this WINE
Domaine Nicole Lamarche
The division of vineyards with Nicole's cousin Natalie is now complete, and Nicole now has under seven hectares, down from 11 hectares. The Malconsorts and Grands Echezeaux have gone but the monopole of La Grande Rue remains. Nicole Lamarche took over from her father, François, in 2006; from ’19, the domaine now carries her name.
Nicole’s style is one of a light touch; the wines aren’t deeply coloured and are sensually soft yet show wonderful intensity.
In the vineyard
Under her aegis, the vineyards have been converted to organic and biodynamic production, although certification isn’t sought. The vines are now trained higher, and leaf cover is retained. In the cellar, the barrel regime has been changed, both in the lower proportion of new oak used each year, and in the coopers that supply the barrels
In the winery
When asked for details of the winemaking process, Nicole remains steadfastly enigmatic: there’s no formula and every cuvée receives a customised élevage. However, there’s always a proportion of whole bunch on the top wines, usually around 30%.
Grands Echézeaux
Located in the larger Côte de Nuits sub-region of Burgundy, Grands Échezeaux is renowned for producing exceptional Pinot Noir wines with a rich history and a reputation for elegance and complexity.
The vineyard benefits from a diverse terroir that includes variations in soil types, exposure to sunlight, and elevation, contributing to the complexity and character of the wines produced here. It is divided among several wine producers, each with a distinct style and approach to winemaking. Some of the most notable producers include Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC), Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret, Domaine Anne Gros, and Domaine de la Vougeraie.
The wines are known for their depth, complexity, and elegance. They often exhibit a dark ruby colour and aromas of red and black fruits, such as cherries, raspberries, and sometimes even darker notes, like blackberries. Floral notes, earthy undertones, and subtle spices are also commonly found in these wines. They typically offer a harmonious balance of fruit, acidity, and refined tannins on the palate, allowing them to age gracefully over time.
Like many premium Burgundy wines, Grands Échezeaux has the potential to age and develop beautifully over the years. Properly cellared bottles can evolve to reveal more complex and nuanced characteristics, making them highly sought-after.
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
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Description
A purposeful, dense red with an impressive volume of fruit surging on the nose. This wine has more of everything but also has a much firmer structure. It should build into something quite special but on tasting is was very backward indeed. New oak helps the floral notes develop and it actually keeps on growing in the glass. Significant potential here.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
Harvest began 6th October, the grapes in surprisingly healthy condition given the weather, allowing Nicole to use some whole bunches. There is a tiny bit more wine than in 2011 and 2012 but a really poor flowering reduced the crop and spun out the flowering. In vinification, Nicole opted to extract less than in other years. The Grands Crus are sold in wooden cases.
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