About this WINE
Weingut Moric
While the Velich family have stuck faithfully to the traditional Austrian line of making white wines, Roland broke away in the ‘90s to create his own enterprise making reds from the Blaufränkisch variety.
The project was called ‘Blaufränkisch Unplugged’. Under the ‘Moric’ label, Roland released his first wine with the 2001 vintage, albeit only a couple of thousand bottles. The fruit is drawn from the relatively unknown (Mittel) Burgenland region, an hour’s drive due south-east of Vienna on the Hungarian border.
In fact this ancient Pannonian region only became part of Austria in 1921, hence why the Hungarian influence remains strong; the grape is called Kekfrankos across the border. Roland sets out to make tiny quantities of ‘terroir’ wines, allowing the grape to express the rich minerality of the mica slate, clay and limestone hills overlooking the Nieusiedlersee Lake; notably around the communes of Neckenmarkt and Lutzmannsburg.
He does this through ruthless fruit selection from high density old vineyards, minimal intervention during vinification, and elevage in large oak…delivering a wine the combines the pleasure of Piemontese Nebbiolo and Burgundian Pinot Noir.
Burgenland
Burgenland lies on the Hungarian border on the far east of Austria, and accounts or about a third of all Austrian wine output. It is mostly known for its reds and sweet white wines. It is one of the four broader regions in the Austrian wine appellation system- the others being Lower Austria (Nieder- Österreich), Steierland and Bergland Österreich (in western Austria).
The region encompasses 4 sub-regions: Mittelburgenland, Sudburgenland, Neusiedlersee-Hugelland and Neusiedlersee with its world-famous, botrysised sweet wines.
In Neusiedlersee, the climate conditions in the Pannonian plains - hot, dry summers and cold winters - together with the temperature-regulating influence of the Neusiedlersee lake, bring about long ripening periods. High humidity and autumn fog aid in bringing about the noble Botrytis rot, which forms the basis of top quality sweet wines such as Beerenauslese (BA) and Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA).
The leading red grape variety in the broader region is Blaufränkisch, exude a mineral-based spicy flavour. Elegant and aromatic dry whites, mainly from the Pinot family, make their mark as well.
Blaufränkisch
The Blaufränkisch grape thrives on the clay and fossil rich soils of Burgenland in Austria. It reminds slightly of the Nebbiolos of Piedmont, with their grace and guile, and it is indeed a great alternative to Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir, or Syrah.
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Description
Roland Velich’s Reserve blends together Blaufrankisch fruit from diverse villages across the Mittelburgenland region of south-east Austria; a zone that used to be part of Hungary, lying on the bed of the ancient Pannonian sea, until 1921. Dense damson in colour, reminiscent of Italy’s Taurasi, while the density of fruit reminds one of northern Rhône Hermitage!
It has a profound yet refined, perfumed nose of blackberry leaf coulis, of sea-salt. The palate is similarly emphatic, full, incisive, yet incredibly refined. Brisk with tense, sour black cherry and (black) chocolate fruit, with a sapidity and structure that hints at Piedmont. While still young it warrants decanting at least an hour or two prior to serving, preferably with pork cutlets (and red cabbage). Austria’s noblest red grape as vinified by one of their most talented producers.
David Berry Green
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