2013 Jamsheed Beechworth Roussanne, Alpine Valley, Victoria
Critics reviews
Lisa Perrotti-Brown - Wine Advocate - eRobertParker.com #217 Feb 2015
Stephen Tanzer - Stephen Tanzer's IWC - August 2013
About this WINE
Jamsheed Wines
Jamsheed’s proprietor and wine maker Gary Mills, was born in Western Australia and, like many of our new Aussie producers, gained exposure to fine wine through his enthusiastic parents. His step-mother was the owner of a considerable wine cellar of both Australian and international wines, so understanding what good wine was came early. A graduate of Literature and Japanese speaker, early jobs were far removed from wine making. Disgruntled with his latest job as a tour guide for Japanese tourists in Queensland, Gary was struck that whatever he did in the future it must include wine.
A contract job in winemaking at Ridge Vineyards, California came his way and his talent turned a five week placement in to a two year stint working closely with Paul Draper. After some time in Oregon and upon returning to Australia, Gary was intrigued with the spice and perfume of Victorian Syrah and forewent the chance to return to his home state but rather set up in the Yarra Valley working with contracted grapes.
In 2003 the output for the first vintage was 120 cases of Syrah and Gewürztraminer. Sites with old vines planted in sympathetic soils have been difficult to find and when they do there is work in getting his hands on the produce. Now sourcing fruit from the Yarra Valley, Great Western, Beechworth (the Warner Vineyard), Moonambel, Mornington Peninsula and the Victorian Pyrenees, production has grown to over 7000 cases but quantities are limited so he can still undertake 100% of the winemaking.
Jamsheed was the grandfather of wine making, the Persian Prince cited in ancient writings, who observed the transformation of grapes to wine through the happy accident of inadequate protection from the environment. It’s an ancient reference, but to us, the wines represent the new wave of cooler climate production in Australia. Pure, expressive and unencumbered wines showing that adaptability in Australian wine making might be its biggest asset.
Roussanne
Roussanne is one of the most important white grape varieties in the Rhône Valley. It is a particularly pernickety grape to cultivate being a notoriously low yielder as well as being highly susceptible to rot. It is difficult to ripen, and seemingly prone to oxidation at every opportunity. Roussanne's name comes from its russet-coloured skin and it produces richly aromatic wines, often with fruit characteristics of lime and blossom.
In the northern Rhône it is typically blended with Marsanne to produce the white wines of Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, St-Joseph, and St-Péray. Generally Marsanne is the dominant partner and it lends colour, body and weight to the blend, as well as richly scented fruit, while Roussanne contributes bouquet, delicacy and finesse.
It is grown less extensively in the southern Rhône although it is one of the permitted varieties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. There are plantings of Roussanne in the Languedoc and Rousillon and in the last decade the grape have been cultivated with particular success in California, where it is produced both as a single varietal and as a component of Rhône-style blends.
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Description
We know the fruit from the Warner Vineyard very well, through the wonderful wines made at Giaconda. This Roussanne, in the hands of Gary Mills at Jamsheed, does everything to enhance the reputation of this premier site in north-eastern Victoria.
The fruit is handpicked, whole-bunch pressed, with the must racked before it has a chance to settle. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts is in 500 and 800 litre French oak barrels in which the wine sits sur lie for eight months. The wine has restrained aromas of peach and minerals with some citrus peel adding complexity and depth. Skin contact has enhanced the weighty texture which is neatly contrasted with the airy, floral flavours on the palate. A mineral and acidic finish is long and intriguing. Another reason for us to keep a very close eye on white Rhône varieties in Australia. Enjoy drinking until 2020.
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