Red, For laying down

2013 Volnay, Les Mitans, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille

2013 Volnay, Les Mitans, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille

Red | For laying down | Domaine de Montille | Code:  30449 | 2013 | France > Burgundy > Cote de Beaune > Volnay | Pinot Noir | Medium-Full Bodied, Dry | 12.5 % alcohol

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Scores and Reviews

WA

89-91/100

WA - The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans is the one Volnay that is 100% whole cluster. Brian Sieve explained that these particular vines produce very little fruit: small berries with more wood than foliage on the actual vines (due to a misplanted rootstock 45 years ago!). But the silver lining, a least in this year, is that the hail did not do so much damage here as elsewhere. "There was good air flow and bunches less tightly packed so you could easily discard any unsuitable berries on the sorting table," winemaker Brian Sieve explained. It has an “airy” bouquet with more lift and floral scents compared to the Champans. The palate is medium-bodied with bright cranberry and tart red cherry notes, brittle but fine tannins with plenty of freshness on the pointed finish where the stem characteristic is just tangible. This seems to be a step up from the Champans this year, and may merit a higher score down the line.
Neal Martin - Wine Advocate, December 2014

The Producer

Domaine de Montille

Domaine de Montille

Domaine de Montille is a first class Côte de Beaune domaine and one which is producing some of the purest expressions of Pinot Noir to be found in Burgundy today. The domaine was developed by Hubert de Montille, a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1951 and most of the production was sold in bulk to négociants. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, as well as 4 hectares in Pommard, taking his total holdings to just short of 17 hectares.

Today the domaine is run by his son Etienne. The winemaking is traditional - partial destemming followed by a relatively long maceration period. The wines are aged in oak barriques (20-30% new) and are bottled unfiltered. These are wonderfully elegant, harmonious wines that require at least five years bottle ageing to show at their very best.

The domaine has recently been considerably extended by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton, and (from 2005) the Cote de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne Romanee Les Malconsorts. There are also some fine holdings of white wine vineyards, especially Puligny Montrachet Les Caillerets.

The Grape

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.

The Region

Volnay

Volnay

The finest and most elegant red wines of the Côte de Beaune are grown in Volnay, a village which might be twinned with Chambolle- Musigny in the Côte de Nuits, for the high active chalk content in the soil and comparatively low clay content.

Whereas in earlier times Volnay was made in a particularly light, early drinking style, these days there are many producers making wines which age extremely well. The best vineyards run either side of the RN73 trunk road.
  • 98 hectares of village Volnay
  • 115 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (35 in all). The finest include Les Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Caillerets (including Clos des 60 Ouvrées) and Santenots in Meursault.
  • Recommended producers:  LafargeLafonde Montille

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