2013 Condrieu, Les Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay, Domaine Ogier

2013 Condrieu, Les Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay, Domaine Ogier

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2013 Condrieu, Les Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay, Domaine Ogier

Description

One of the greatest of all Condrieus, its full name, appropriately enough, deferential to a member of the extended Vernay family, this wine is sourced from vines that were planted in 1948. Aged partly in 350-litre barrels and partly in larger 16-hectolitre foudres, the 2013 is rich yet energetic, spicy yet focused, with hints of exotic orange-like fruit tempered by a finish which recalls smoke and peat; a pleasing recollection of course.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off. Even better, the sensational 2013 Condrieu les Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay (not to be confused with George Vernay) comes from the granite soils of the La Combe lieu-dit, which is in the southern part of the appellation. Riper, richer and even more concentrated than the Combe de Malleval, it has awesome white peach, honeyed tangerine, white flowers and crushed rock to go with a seamless, elegant, full-bodied and mouth-filling profile on the palate. One of the vintage's greatest successes, it will drink well for 3-4 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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About this WINE

Domaine Stephane Ogier

Domaine Stephane Ogier

Michel Ogier is a relative newcomer to the top ranks of the wine-making world: up until 1980 he sold his entire crop, on the vine, to Messrs Chapoutier and Guigal. Since then, he has invested an enormous amount of time and capital in his well-situated 2½ hectare vineyard and now, handed over to his ambitious and likeable son, Stèphane.

The wines themselves are not the huge, structured beasts typical of some other Côte Rôtie producers. They tend more towards a silky elegance with soft, subtle tannins. However, they retain that incredible ability to age that is synonymous with the best Côte Rôtie.

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Condrieu

Condrieu

Condrieu is to Viognier what the Côte de Nuits is to Pinot Noir. There are now plantings of Viognier worldwide, but this pernickety grape’s spiritual homeland is still in Condrieu – where the finest Viogniers in the world are still produced.

The appellation was created in 1940, and today over 40 growers produce wine from just over 100 hectares of vineyards. In 1965 the appellation covered only eight hectares.

Guigal accounts for 45 percent of the appellation’s production.  The vineyards are adjacent to those of Côte-Rôtie, but not as steep. The best Condrieu wines are produced from soils that are on narrow, south-facing or south-east-facing terraces of granite – where the average vine age is around 50 years old.

Condrieu is solely made from the Viognier grape. As well as being situated next to Côte-Rôtie it also encompasses the separate AC of Château-Grillet. The wines are dry with a wonderful floral nose of peaches, apricots, violets and pears. They are quite alcoholic, with low-ish acidity. Condrieus are best enjoyed when young to ensure they maintain their freshness and delicate fruit flavours.

Recommended producers: Pierre GaillardMouton Père et Fils

Best vintages: 2006, 2005, 2004

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Reviews

Customer reviews

The Wine Advocate96/100

Critic reviews

The Wine Advocate96/100
Even better, the sensational 2013 Condrieu les Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay (not to be confused with George Vernay) comes from the granite soils of the La Combe lieu-dit, which is in the southern part of the appellation. Riper, richer and even more concentrated than the Combe de Malleval, it has awesome white peach, honeyed tangerine, white flowers and crushed rock to go with a seamless, elegant, full-bodied and mouth-filling profile on the palate. One of the vintage's greatest successes, it will drink well for 3-4 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - 30/12/2014 Read more