Berry Bros. & Rudd Dry Oloroso by Barbadillo, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Jerez, Spain
Critics reviews
Amy Bryant, "It Takes Two", The Daily Telegraph Magazine. 15th July 2017.
About this WINE
Barbadillo
Barbadillo is one of the largest Manzanilla-producing firms in Sanlucar de Barrameda. It was founded in 1821 by Don Benigno Barbadillo y Ortiguela and today it remains family-owned and run with its present head being Don Antonio Barbadillo.
The firm has 16 bodegas located in the centre of Sanlucar and owns vineyards in San Julian, Carrascal, Campiz and Balbaina.
A wide range of Manzanillas are produced, with the Soleo being the most renowned. A small quantity of Amontillados and Olorosos is produced.
Palomino Fino
Palomino, named after Fernan Yanez Palomonio, one of King Alfonso X`s knights, is the primary grape variety for Sherry styles (Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado, Oloroso, Palo Cortado) production.
It is a high yielding variety that is widely planted in Spain producing mostly insipid thin, dull wines lacking in fruit and acidity. However it thrives on the predominantly chalk based soils of Cadiz where it produces large bunches of golden yellow grapes, which ripen in early September. The resulting must is transparent in colour and somewhat neutral in flavour, but the subsequent wine can develop a coating of flor before maturing in the solera system and produce a whole range of intense and aromatic sherries.
It is also grown in South Africa, California, and Australia where it is fortified to make sherry-style wines.
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Description
Sherry is probably the most under-valued fine wine in the world, with levels of complexity and persistence that would command a 10-fold increase in price were they sourced from Bordeaux or Burgundy. When to drink this gem: before dinner with some salted almonds or olives works, as does afterwards, with some walnuts. Oloroso is also surprisingly good with robust meat dishes.
Our Dry Oloroso has a nose suggestive of something sweet, with its notes of walnuts and dried fruit, so the lack of sweetness on the palate is initially something of a shock. As the layers of flavour unfold in your mouth, this is clearly a very different wine from a more commercial, sweetened cream Sherry. In addition to the nuts and raisined-depth, there is a haunting toffee-sweetness on the palate of this dry wine. The finish persists for an age.
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