About this WINE
Rafael Palacios
Rafael Palacios is the brother of Spain’s leading winemaker and Berry Bros. & Rudd stalwart Alvaro Palacios. It should come as no surprise that the family genius, enthusiasm and attention to detail is also evidenced in Rafael’s wines. Whereas the Palacios family made its name in Rioja, and Alvaro has subsequently achieved world-wide recognition for his vineyards in the appellation of Priorat and (latterly) Bierzo, Rafael has headed to the green north-west Atlantic-influenced vines of the DO of Valdeorras, which is located windward of Rueda, not too far to the north of the Portuguese border and the River Miño.
The jewel here is the white variety Godello, which is now achieving recognition similar to that latterly afforded to Albarino and Verdejo. Sandy soils with granite substratum allied to historical terraced vineyards add up to hard work, small yields and a concomitant high level of quality. He puts a particular emphasis on the practice of using organic treaments and biodynamic agriculture.
Rafa works with over 20 tiny parcels scattered around the region, with vines ranging up to almost 100 years in age. He currently makes two wines: Louro do Bolo, his lighter, entry-level expression, and As Sortes, which offers a step up in quality. Both are blindingly delicious, textural whites.
Godello
Godello is a white grape variety primarily found in northwest Spain and northern Portugal. The grape is capable of producing very fine white wines, and it is in the Valdeorras region that its greatest successes are seen, leading to a steady increase in plantings there. Bodegas Rafael Palacios (managed by the brother of Spain’s leading winemaker Alvaro Palacios) has been the driving force behind the revival of the grape.
In Jancis Robinson MW words' "Godello combines the structure of white burgundy with the finesse of a juicily mineral grape".
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Description
The President and The Boss have both fallen for the charms of Godello. It was reported that President Obama enjoyed a glass at an official function last year, as did Springsteen before his recent gig in Madrid.
Louro do Bolo brilliantly illustrates why this varietal is becoming so popular. With saline minerality and bracing freshness, it has a maritime – specifically Atlantic even – character which belies the fact that Valdeorras is 200km inland. Oatmeal, fennel and a slight leesy aroma presage a medium-full palate; rich and complex, yet alive with acidity. That acidity will slice through the batter of pescaito frito (or haddock from the chippy), while its texture makes Louro an equally successful match for creamy fish dishes.
Will Heslop, Buying Team
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