2010 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Lucie & Auguste Lignier

Domaine Lucie et August Lignier

Lucie and Auguste are the children of the late Romain Lignier and Romain’s widow Kellen who has been running the domaine for her children despite the opposition of her in-laws. The situation has not been definitively resolved at the time of writing, though there appears to be at least a truce if not a final understanding. Almost all the domaine (apart from 1.1 hectares of Morey-St-Denis Les Sionnières and a couple of other very small plots) relies on sharecropping agreements, mostly with Hubert Lignier, so these may could still come to an end.

The wines are currently being made in cellars, formerly the local cave-cooperative, under the hotel restaurant Castel Très Girard. Holdings:
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 1.01ha, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 0.08ha, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes 0.13ha, Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée Romaine Lignier 0.67ha,  Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru Chaffots 0.60ha, Morey-St-Denis Clos Les Sionnières 1.10ha, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru les Baudes 0.17ha, Gevrey-Chambertin Seuvrées 1.02ha, Chambolle-Musigny Les Bussières 0.49ha, Morey-St-Denis 1.12ha, Fixin Champs de Vosger (Blanc) 0.23ha.

Morey-Saint-Denis

Morey is sometimes ignored between its two famous neighbours, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin, but its wines are of equal class, combining elegance and structure. Morey-St Denis, being that little bit less famous, can often provide excellent value.

The four main Grand Cru vineyards continue in a line from those of Gevrey-Chambertin, with Clos St Denis and Clos de la Roche the most widely available. Clos des Lambrays (almost) and Clos de Tart (entirely) are monopolies of the domains which bear the same names.

Domaine Dujac and Domaine Ponsot also make rare white wines in Morey-St Denis.

• 64 hectares of village Morey-St Denis
• 33 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (20 in all). Best vineyards include Les Charmes, Les Millandes, Clos de la Bussière, Les Monts Luisants
• 40 hectares of Grand Cru vineyard. Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de la Roche, Clos St Denis and a tiny part of Bonnes Mares
• Recommended Producers: Dujac, Ponsot, Clos de Tart, Domaine des Lambrays

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.