2005 Nuits-St. Georges, Vaucrains 1er Domaine Robert Chevillon
Critics reviews
David Schildknecht - 30/04/2007
About this WINE
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
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Description
Of all the Chevillon wines, their 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Vaucrains like their Cailles and Les St.-Georges, from roughly 80-year-old vines displays the greatest density, stoniest minerality, most piquant nuttiness, and deepest, darkest, blackberry and beet root fruit character. The overall impression is breath-taking in its sheer concentration, yet rather somber and brooding in personality, with an emphasis on piquancy, bitterness and stoniness. Toasted walnut and hickory, cherry pits, black chocolate, stones, and charred meat inform this wines powerful, penetrating finish. Were it not for a persistent primary blackberry juiciness and the great refinement of its abundant tannins, this would border on the hyper-concentrated.
David Schildknecht - 30/04/2007
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