2008 Nuits-St Georges Rouge, Clos de la Maréchale, 1er Cru,Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Burgundy
Critics reviews
(Allen Meadows, burghound.com)
Antonio Galloni - 02/05/2011
About this WINE
Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier
Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier is based at the Château de Chambolle-Musigny, which has been in the Mugnier family since 1863. Frédéric Mugnier – the fifth generation of the family on the property – took over in 1985. As of 2004, he has reclaimed the Nuits-St Georges Clos de la Maréchale vineyard, which had been on lease to Faiveley since 1950.
Nuits-Saint Georges
Originally known as Nuits, or even Nuits-sous-Beaune, the town was happy to add the name of its finest vineyard, Les St Georges, in the 19th century. There are no Grands Crus, but many fine Premier Cru vineyards, the mayor of the time – Henri Gouges – preferring not to single out any vineyard for the highest status.
The wines of Nuits-St Georges vary according to their exact provenance. Those of the hamlet of Prémeaux, considered to be part of Nuits-St Georges for viticultural purposes, are often on the lighter side.The richest and most sought-after are those just south of Nuits-St Georges such as Les Vaucrains, Les Cailles and Les St Georges itself. The third sector, including Les Murgers, Les Damodes and Les Boudots are at the Vosne-Romanée end of the village, and demonstrate some of the extra finesse associated with Vosne.
Several domaines (Gouges, Rion, Arlot) now produce a white Nuits-St Georges from Pinot Blanc or Chardonnay.
- 175 hectares of village Nuits-St Georges
- 143 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (20 in all). Best vineyards include Les St Georges, and Clos des Argillières and Clos de la Maréchale in Prémeaux
- Recommended producers: Gouges, Rion, Liger Belair, Potel
- Recommended restaurant : La Cabotte (small but stylish)
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
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Description
Most Exciting Value Red
This is the largest premier cru in Nuits St Georges (though would still fit ten-times over in
many Bordelais estates) at 9.55 hectares and is owned in its entirety by the Mugnier family. It
was rented out to Maison Faiveley from 1950 to 2003, with Jacques-Fréderic making his
début in 2004. The wine now has a definite “Chambolle” edge to it and combines Nuits
weight with the Mugnier soft touch.
(BBR Fine Wine)
The alluring perfume here is seriously expressive - more like a great Chambolle than a Nuits, but with a tell-tale Nuits grip. The palate has serious freshness, depth, complexity and a wonderfully long finish, all combined with the smooth texture. We are seeing the maestro that is Frédéric Mugnier really getting to grips with this vineyard – this is the best vintage of this wine yet.
(BBR Fine Wine)
Mugnier’s Clos de la Maréchale has layer upon layer of dark red fruit with an impressive weight on the palate and a superb aftertaste. This should age very well indeed.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Burgundy Buyer)
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