About this WINE
Rafael Palacios
Rafael Palacios is the brother of Spain’s leading winemaker and Berry Bros. & Rudd stalwart Alvaro Palacios. It should come as no surprise that the family genius, enthusiasm and attention to detail is also evidenced in Rafael’s wines. Whereas the Palacios family made its name in Rioja, and Alvaro has subsequently achieved world-wide recognition for his vineyards in the appellation of Priorat and (latterly) Bierzo, Rafael has headed to the green north-west Atlantic-influenced vines of the DO of Valdeorras, which is located windward of Rueda, not too far to the north of the Portuguese border and the River Miño.
The jewel here is the white variety Godello, which is now achieving recognition similar to that latterly afforded to Albarino and Verdejo. Sandy soils with granite substratum allied to historical terraced vineyards add up to hard work, small yields and a concomitant high level of quality. He puts a particular emphasis on the practice of using organic treaments and biodynamic agriculture.
Rafa works with over 20 tiny parcels scattered around the region, with vines ranging up to almost 100 years in age. He currently makes two wines: Louro do Bolo, his lighter, entry-level expression, and As Sortes, which offers a step up in quality. Both are blindingly delicious, textural whites.
Godello
Godello is a white grape variety primarily found in northwest Spain and northern Portugal. The grape is capable of producing very fine white wines, and it is in the Valdeorras region that its greatest successes are seen, leading to a steady increase in plantings there. Bodegas Rafael Palacios (managed by the brother of Spain’s leading winemaker Alvaro Palacios) has been the driving force behind the revival of the grape.
In Jancis Robinson MW words' "Godello combines the structure of white burgundy with the finesse of a juicily mineral grape".
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Description
This is an utterly sensational blend of Godello (approximately 90 percent) and Treixadura from one of the very best producers in one of the world’s most exciting wine regions. Quite a billing but, believe me, in terms of complexity, concentration and balance, this can go toe-to-toe with Burgundies twice the price. Rafael (brother of Priorat’s Álvaro) Palacios is rightly regarded as one of Spain’s premier producers of white wine, making his mark in Valdeorras where he farms small plots of old vines.
Fermentation in large oak casks (20 percent new), followed by four months on its lees have served Louro well, contributing texture and an appealing savoury note (“fennel?” I wondered) to the palate. Its mouth-watering acidity and that saline lick to the finish suggest pairing it with shellfish, but this has the body to work well alongside creamy fish dishes and – that old chestnut – roast chicken (perhaps with chestnut stuffing).
Rafael Palacios is rightly regarded as one of Spain’s premier producers of white wine. Having witnessed older brother Álvaro transform the reputation of Priorat, Rafa elected to make his mark in Valdeorras where he acquired numerous small plots of vines – some 90 years old – on vertiginous slopes overlooking the Bibei river.
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