Critics reviews
Neal Martin - 28/10/2016
About this WINE
Chateau Labadie
Chateau Labadie was classed as a Cru Bourgeois in the 1932 classification and again in the 2003 revision. The wine estate lies at the northern tip of the Medoc, around the village of Begadan, and for many years the grapes were sold to the local co-operative.
In 1988, however, owners Yves and Adelaide Bibey changed policy and decided to make their own wine. In 1999 their son, Jerome, joined them and he has gradually taken over the control of the estate. The soil is a combination of clay/limestone, highly suited to the Merlot grape, and gravel, on which Cabernet Sauvignon is planted. The estate owns 40 hectares of vines, producing 2400 hectolitres each year from 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc.
The wines are fermented in either stainless steel or cement tanks, and aged in oak barrels, a small percentage new, for 12-15 months prior to bottling.
Médoc
The Médoc is arguably the most famous red wine district in the world, home to many of the greatest and most renowned names of Bordeaux. It stretches north-west from the city of Bordeaux with the Gironde estuary to the east. The vineyards extend up to eight miles from the river and run for about 50 miles northwards. It is a surprisingly dull landscape, with the best land found on gravelly outcrops.
The most northerly, low-lying vineyards are classified as Bas-Médoc, whilst those on higher ground, closer to the city of Bordeaux, are entitled to the Haut-Médoc appellation. Within that appellation, there are further communal or village appellations, namely Listrac and Moulis, and the four great names of St. Estèphe, Pauillac, St Julien and Margaux. As a rule of thumb, the greatest wines are made at those properties closest to the river.
Recommended Châteaux from the Bas-Médoc: Ch. Le Boscq, Ch. Patache d'Aux, Ch. Potensac, Ch. la Tour de By, Ch. La Tour Carnet, La Tour Haut-Caussan, Ch. La Tour-St-Bonnet, Ch. Verdignan, Ch. Rolland de By
Recommended châteaux from the Haut-Médoc : Ch. La Lagune, Ch. Cantemerle, Ch d’Agassac, Ch. Belgrave, Ch. Camensac, Ch. Charmail, Ch. Cissac, Ch. Citran, Ch. Lanessan, Ch. Liversan, Ch. du Moulin Rouge, Ch. Sociando-Mallet, Ch. La Tour Carnet, Ch. Verdignan, Ch. d’Arche, Ch. Beaumont, Ch. Lamothe-Bergeron
Cabernet Sauvignon Blend
Cabernet Sauvignon lends itself particularly well in blends with Merlot. This is actually the archetypal Bordeaux blend, though in different proportions in the sub-regions and sometimes topped up with Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.
In the Médoc and Graves the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend can range from 95% (Mouton-Rothschild) to as low as 40%. It is particularly suited to the dry, warm, free- draining, gravel-rich soils and is responsible for the redolent cassis characteristics as well as the depth of colour, tannic structure and pronounced acidity of Médoc wines. However 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wines can be slightly hollow-tasting in the middle palate and Merlot with its generous, fleshy fruit flavours acts as a perfect foil by filling in this cavity.
In St-Emilion and Pomerol, the blends are Merlot dominated as Cabernet Sauvignon can struggle to ripen there - when it is included, it adds structure and body to the wine. Sassicaia is the most famous Bordeaux blend in Italy and has spawned many imitations, whereby the blend is now firmly established in the New World and particularly in California and Australia.
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Description
Juicy Merlot represents just over half the blend in ’14, with 46% Cabernet sauvignon and a dash a crunchy Cab Franc. Expect aromas of ripe black fruit, and a hint of cedar from one year in oak (25% new). Yields at Labadie are restricted, resulting in wines of impressive concentration, which age exceptionally well. Still, with its rounded tannins and refreshing acidity, this is difficult to resist now.
Château Labadie, a standard-bearer for the Médoc AOC, was recently shortlisted for the Coupe des Crus Bourgeois du Médoc 2017.
Will Heslop, Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd.
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