2014 Chablis, Grand Cru, Les Clos, Domaine Long-Depaquit
Critics reviews
Neal Martin - 31/08/2016
About this WINE
Domaine Long-Depaquit
The origins of this domaine can be traced back to 1791 when Jean Depaquy and his brother Simon moved to Chablis in the aftermath of the Revolution, "for their health". They purchased vineyard holdings and the domaine developed into one of the most renowned in the village. In 1967 the Beaune-based négociant Albert Bichot took a controlling interest.
The domaine has cellars that were fully revamped in 1973 and which are located in a small courtyard in the middle of the village of Chablis. There are 62 hectares of vineyards which includes holdings in 4 Premiers Crus and 5 Grands Crus. Pride of place belongs to the 2.35 hectare Grand Cru monopole La Moutonne. Situated in the heart of the Grand Cru amphitheatre, the vineyard produces wines of purity, finesse and marvellous definition of fruit.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
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Description
The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos is raised 65% in stainless steel and 35% in wooden barrels for ten months, plus another six all in stainless steel. It has a slightly smudged bouquet that should be more detailed. The palate is straightforward with green apple and nectarine notes, but there is little mineralit or tension here. This should be better given the vineyard and the quality of the superior Vaudsir.
Neal Martin - 31/08/2016
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