2016 Fleurie, Joie du Palais, Domaine Lafarge Vial, Beaujolais
Critics reviews
Neal Martin - 29/12/2017
About this WINE
Lafarge Vial
Domaine Lafarge Vial is a well-established winery in Beaujolais, founded by Frédéric Lafarge and his wife Chantal in the spring of 2014. Situated in the commune of Fleurie, the domaine owns several vineyard parcels in Fleurie and one small adjoining parcel in Chiroubles within the lieu-dit Bel-Air.
The vineyards are traditionally trained in the gobelet method and planted on degraded granite soils. Right from the start, the Lafarges embraced biodynamic practices, mirroring their approach at Domaine Michel Lafarge in Volnay, and they are working towards obtaining biodynamic certification for their Fleurie and Chiroubles wines.
With a focus on producing Cru Beaujolais, the Lafarge family employs the same intensity and artistry as they do with their renowned Domaine Michel Lafarge in Volnay. They own over 4 hectares of Gamay vines, some up to 70 years old, spread across five parcels on steep granitic terrain.
The vineyard management is done manually, using horse ploughing on steep slopes. Winemaker Frédéric Lafarge follows traditional Burgundian vinification techniques, including natural yeast fermentation in open concrete vats, utilizing around 25% whole cluster, and employing gentle extraction with remontage only. The wines undergo a short 12-month ageing process in used oak barrels of 228L and 350L.
Like other established Burgundian producers, who have turned their attention to Beaujolais, the Lafarges emphasize producing wines from specific regional appellations, focusing on Fleurie and Chiroubles. Their dedication to crafting terroir-driven, serious wines has made an immediate impact in Beaujolais, and their commitment to organic and biodynamic practices reflects their belief in sustainable and artisanal winemaking.
Fleurie
Evocatively-named, Fleurie epitomises all that is good about the region with its perfumed, silky, moreish style. Its 800ha of vineyards produce some of the finest, popular and most expensive wines in the region. As its name suggests, this quintessential Beaujolais is fresh, floral, fragrant and feminine.
Despite initial impressions to the contrary, its silky fruit has suprising depth and concentration that allows the wine to age as well as any in the region. At the same time it is wonderfully approachable almost immediately, which may also explain its popularity. Its more powerful examples, like Michel Chignard's ‘Les Moriers’ come from close to the border with northerly neighbour Moulin-à-Vent.
Recommended Producers: André Colonge, Michel Chignard, Bernard Métrat .
Gamay
A French variety planted predominately in Beaujolais where it is the grape behind everything from light and often acidic Beaujolais Nouveau through to the more serious and well-structured wines from the 10 cru villages. It takes its name from a hamlet just outside Chassagne-Montrachet and was at one stage widely planted on the Côte d`Or. However it was gradually phased out due to its poor yield and supposed poor quality of its wines.
The majority of Gamay wines in Beaujolais are labelled as Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages and are deliciously juicy, easy drinking, gulpable wines. Of more interest are the Cru wines from the 10 villages in the north of the region where the soil is predominantly granitic schist and where the vines are planted on gently undulating slopes. These can be well-structured, intensely perfumed wines, redolent of ripe black fruits and, while delicious young, will reward medium term cellaring.
Gamay is also grown in the Touraine region of the Loire where it produces soft, well-balanced, gluggable wines for drinking young.
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Description
The Lafarges used 15 percent whole-bunch across the range in 2016, with a mixture of remontage and gentle pigeage. Having begun the project in 2014 using 228-litre barrels from Domaine Lafarge, they are generally moving towards foudres and larger barrels as they learn more about Gamay on granite soils. This wine comes from just over a hectare of 60-year-old vines planted on decomposed granite soils on a steep slope opposite La Madone. There is lovely purity on the nose, while the palate is complex and fine, with rounded tannins. There is a good weight of crunchy red-berry fruit and a firm but precise granitic structure which points to good ageing potential. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
The excellence of Cru Beaujolais is something I have held dear for some time, but its ageing potential was first brought to my attention when I was served two Moulin-à-Vent wines from 1961 and 1962 produced by Camille Giroud. The freshness and complexity of these wines was simply astonishing and I have since made it something of a personal mission to return these great wines to their rightful place in the cellars and on the tables of the most discerning wine drinkers. The wines in our offer cover a range of styles; whole-bunch, de-stemmed, oaked, unoaked, elegant and floral, dense and structured. This almost endless variety and versatility is what is most fascinating about Gamay grown on Beaujolais’s volcanic soils. What the wines have in common, however, is that they all offer excellent value for money and great drinking pleasure.
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